94 Best things to see & do in Tuscany

One of Italy’s most popular sights, this astonishingly beautiful belltower dates back to 1173. An architectural marvel at the time, the tower was doomed from the outset, having been built on unstable sand and clay.

It began to lean once the third storey was completed; work was suspended for a hundred years, with the tower only being completed in the late 14th century. It housed seven bells, one for each musical note, and eventually reached a height of just over 58m.

In 1993, at 15 feet off the vertical, the tower seemed so close to collapse that an expensive rescue bid was made involving vast counterweights, steel cables and lots of digging. It worked to a degree; the building is once again safe and open to the public (but with enough lean to keep the hordes coming).

The still-famously titling tower still attracts millions of visitors a year, for the unnerving climb up its 293 steps.

The most famous bareback horserace in the world, Il Palio sees horses and riders galloping three times round Siena’s glorious, medieval Piazza del Campo.

Palio is a centuries-old settling of neighbourhood scores for the Sienese, and it defines the social, cultural and political fabric of the city each year. Each of the 17 contrade (neighbourhoods) enters a horse and jockey (although only 10 compete in each race) with the single objective to win by fair means or – occasionally – foul.

The race itself is over in a flash (an average of 75 seconds), but it’s preceded by several hours of processions and three days of pre-race trials and festivities. Each contrada holds its own festivities (al fresco dinners, the blessing of the horses in the contrada churches) in the three days leading up to the races.

Some of Italy’s best wines are produced in the DOCG Chianti Classico, 177,500 acres of undulating, vine-striped land stretching between Florence and Siena. Dozens of wine estates share this fertile terroir, many of which offer tastings and vineyard tours and an opportunity to buy wines from source. Some also have very good restaurants and accommodation.

The history of wine-making in the region dates back hundreds of years. Early Chiantis were a blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Malvasia Bianca grapes; today, a DOC Chianti must be made with at least 80% Sangiovese.

The main Chianti growing area is divided into eight sub-zones. The most famous is Chianti Classico, located between Florence and Siena, which produces some 25 million bottles a year, including some of the region’s greatest wines. Most bottles sport the image of a black rooster on a gold background, a guarantee of quality.

With around a million paintings, frescoes and sculptures, Florence harbours the world’s densest concentration of Renaissance art (and not only), remarkable for both the sheer volume of work contained within its walls, but also for the quality; expect to see masterpieces by the likes of Giotto, Masaccio, the Lippis, Leonardo and Michelangelo.

Exactly why this ‘rebirth’ occurred in Florence is a matter for debate, but wealthy patrons such as the ruling Medicis, along with the presence of outstanding artistic talents and the 15th-century thirst for knowledge, certainly helped.

Florence’s other big-name art museum (with the Uffizi) has a world-class collection of 14th- and 15th-century art, but those endless queues of people are really here to see one thing: Michelangelo’s 1504 4m-high statue of David.

Moved here in 1873 from Piazza della Signoria, the iconic sculpture appears quite different in the flesh: the head and hands are larger than expected (a trick of perspective; originally the statue was placed higher up).

Walk around the back to see David’s sling, a tree stump – and those famous buttocks.

Containing some 5,400 works, the Uffizi’s collection spans art history from ancient Greece through to 18th-century Venetian painting. But most of all, it is known as the world’s largest and most important collection of Renaissance and Mannerist art.

You could spend all day wandering the galleries, but the best bet is to pick out the works you want to see beforehand and head straight for those. The website has helpfully selected its must-see masterpieces and provided some useful background information on each – worth reading before you go.

Florence is known as the cradle of the Renaissance and is home to a wealth of buildings belonging to that era. Lavish Romanesque and Gothic styles were fashionable in the 11th – 13th centuries, before an early Renaissance style emerged in the early 15th century.

The centre of Florence is filled with palaces, churches and monuments defining this movement which was characterised by a classical sensibility with pilasters, columns, arches and pediments and strictly mathematical proportions.

The three architects who dominated the period were Brunelleschi, Michelozzo and Alberti while Michelangelo became one of the most important architects of the High Renaissance.

Completed in 1436, this multi-colored marble megalith is crowned with one of the marvels of the Renaissance world; Brunelleschi’s vast double-shelled dome – built without scaffolding – was a breathtaking feat of engineering.

If time is short, skip the cathedral’s barn-like interior and visit the dome (463 steps) and Giotto’s magnificent bell tower (414 steps).

Florence’s most imposing building was once home to the Medici court and later to the Savoy kings. Now this vast former palace houses multiple museums, the largest – and most important – of which is the Palatina Gallery.

The Palatina is laid out in a series of grand rooms on the first floor with fabulous frescoed ceilings under which hang masterworks by the likes of Raphael, Rubens, Botticelli and Van Dyck in elaborate gilded frames.

The other museums include the Treasury of the Grand Dukes, the Gallery of Modern Art and the Museum of Costume and Fashion. A new ground-floor gallery opened in late 2021 housing the oldest collection of Russian icons in Western Europe.

Many of Florence’s religious buildings were constructed between the 11th and 13th centuries, but few have remained untainted by later additions. During Renaissance times, wealthy families such as the ruling Medicis commissioned the finest artists to fresco family chapels, carve tombs for loved ones, update architectural structures and create bespoke works of art.

Step into any Florentine church today and you’ll find an extraordinary legacy of art treasures by masters such as Giotto, Masaccio, the Lippis and Michelangelo.

The UNESCO-protected Val d’Orcia is one of the most beautiful areas of Tuscany, a ravishing expanse of open, undulating farmland broken by cypresses in soldier-straight lines and dominated by Monte Amiata, an extinct volcano.

Atmospheric hill-top towns dot the countryside, many dating back to medieval times, when settlements were built on outcrops of rock or hill summits; both easier to protect and harder to invade.

Pottering between two of three of the towns is a glorious way to spend a day; Pienza and Montepulciano are the biggest draws, but other highlights include the spa village of Bagno Vignoni – where a thermal pool takes the place of the central piazza – and San Quirico d’Orcia, with its magnificent Collegiata church. Close to Montepulciano is Villa La Foce, with a beautiful garden open to visitors.

Unpaved white roads link many of the smaller villages in the area, making this ideal walking and cycling country. Weaving through these unspoilt landscapes on either foot or two wheels is a fabulous way to appreciate some of the most beautiful rural landscapes in Italy.

Pisa’s so-called ‘Field of Miracles’ (Campo dei Miracoli) is an elegant complex of monumental, unique buildings set on a wide green lawn just inside the northern city walls. It encompasses the iconic Leaning Tower, the Cathedral, the Baptistery and the Campo Santo.

First constructed was the huge Romanesque Cathedral, begun in 1063, with an intricately-tiered marble façade. Then came the Baptistery (1152), the biggest of its kind in Italy; it has a magnificent pulpit by Nicola Pisano. Building started on the emblematic Leaning Tower (a bell tower) in 1173, and it almost immediately began to lean.

Finally came the Camposanto (‘Holy Field’) cemetery, a roofless rectangle of gleaming white marble begun in 1277. It was once adorned with fabulous frescoes by Benozzo Gozzoli, but Allied bombing in 1944 caused the roof to collapse all but destroying them; today just fragments remain.

This is one of the most visited sites in Tuscany, although most people have their sights set on the Leaning Tower.

Tuscan cooking is recognised as being among the best regional cuisines in Italy, yet it’s based on the concept of cucina povera (humble cooking) and on modest ingredients.

Traditional Tuscan cuisine is hearty and rustic, and based on simple ingredients such as bread, pulses, meat and poultry, fresh veg and olive oil, all prepared with the minimum of fuss. Close to the coast, you’ll find more fish and seafood, but again, recipes are simple.

Tuscan red wines are highly-respected throughout the world. A local trattoria will usually offer a perfectly drinkable, cheap and cheerful house wine (red is a better bet) sold by the litre. More sophisticated regional wines to try include Brunello, Chianti Classico and Vino Nobile.

Of all the food and wine ingredients indigenous to Tuscany, the white truffle is probably the most highly-prized – yet it’s one of those things that you will either love or hate; it has a heady yet strange, earthy, musky aroma and a delicate flavour that lends itself particularly well to eggs and buttery tagliolini pasta

Different types of truffles grow year-round in Tuscany and in various areas, the most prolific of which are San Miniato, the Mugello and the Crete Senese. They are, however, elusive. White truffles will only thrive in just the right conditions, growing on the roots of trees and normally hidden by layers of damp leaves and earth.

A truffle hunt with an expert trifulau (truffle hunter) and his dog is a compelling way to discover how the truffle-hunting world works. The stakes are high – white truffles sell for huge amounts of money. In 2007, a 1.28kg tuber sold at auction in the US for an astonishing $330,000.

The most highly prized of Tuscany’s rich food harvest, the white truffle is also the most elusive. An expert-led truffle hunt is an ideal way to discover and taste these extraordinary tubers.

The Florentines are quite traditional in what they eat and justly proud of their local cuisine which is hearty, rustic, and based on simple ingredients such as bread, pulses, meat and poultry, fresh veg and olive oil, all prepared with the minimum of fuss. Typical seasonal ingredients include artichokes and porcini mushrooms, wild boar, rabbit, pork, game and excellent beef.

Wash it down with one of the robust local red wines; Tuscany is Italy’s premier wine-growing region producing from Chianti Classico in the hills between Florence and Siena to the highly-rated (and highly-priced) Super Tuscans from the Bolgheri zone on the coast.

Meals are traditionally divided into antipasti (starters), primi (soup, pasta), secondi (meat, fish) and dolce (dessert).

Tuscany is full of natural hot springs or terme, many of which date from Roman or even Etruscan times and whose waters, originating from deep within the earth’s crust and emerging at around 35°C-37°C, have long been known to have therapeutic properties.

Each spring has a different combination of minerals and gases, so different terme are said to be beneficial for different conditions. Carbon dioxide boosts the immune system, for example, and sulfur-rich water is believed to benefit muscular and arthritic pain.

Hotels, some with day spas, have been developed around many of these springs, and while some are fairly modest, others have turned into luxury spa resorts offering first-class accommodation and a myriad of treatments (both medicinal and cosmetic) to compliment the thermal waters.

According to many of its citizens, Siena is the most perfect medieval city in the world. A glorious ensemble of red brick buildings and exquisite monuments, it’s famous for its fan-shaped Campo and the twice-yearly Il Palio horse race.

Any visit to the city should begin in the sloping Piazza del Campo, the city’s main square, fringed with cafes that are perfect for a doppio espresso and a spot of people-watching. The square is dominated by the Mangia Tower and the Palazzo Pubblico – and climbing the tower is a great way to start your visit, giving wraparound views of the city and surrounding countryside.

The old town is relatively compact and the best way to explore is simply by strolling through the ancient streets and alleyways.

Lucca is a compact gem of a town, a perfect ensemble of Medieval and Renaissance buildings enclosed by a well-preserved set of 16th-century walls. Aside from its handsome piazzas and palazzi and exquisite churches, it boasts some lovely old shops, excellent restaurants and atmospheric cafés, all lining a network of pretty cobbled streets. Its overall attraction lies in the fact that it never feels overwhelmed by tourists, thus offering an authentic sense of local life.

A coffee in oval Piazza del Anfiteatro (built on the site of the Roman amphitheatre) is a good place to start a tour of the town. There are some wonderful old shops with their original storefronts in and around nearby Via Fillungo.

Historic, atmospheric Caffè di Simo (Via Fillungo 58) is another good place for a cappuccino and a pastry while the Buca di Sant’Antonio restaurant (open since 1782, Via della Cervia 3) serves up Lucchese specialities with a modern twist.

A ride down the river Arno in a traditional wooden boat or ‘barchetto’ is one of the more unusual ways to see the city.

The 50-odd minute tour takes in landmarks such as the Ponte Vecchio and Santa Trinita bridges, vast Palazzo Corsini and the Uffizi gallery; it’s particularly romantic at sunset when an aperitivo is included, but early morning is another evocative time to go.

Sometimes dubbed the medieval Manhattan for its clutch of slim towers (visible for miles around), iconic San Gimignano is Tuscany’s most famous (and most visited) hill town. Arguably over-restored, it is nonetheless achingly pretty, a set piece of medieval palazzi, graceful piazze, narrow streets and the aforementioned towers – of which only 14 survive of an original 72.

A good way to start a visit is by climbing the 218 steps of the Torre Grossa for an overview of the town and its jumble of red rooftops. Then wander the Piazza della Cisterna (containing the town’s old well) and Piazza del Duomo – both are lovely, the latter lined with impressive palazzi.

Opened in October 2011 to celebrate the 90th birthday of this famous Florentine brand, the Gucci Museo has eight sleek, spot-lit rooms showcasing pivotal pieces from the company archives.

Admire gowns worn to the Oscars by the likes of Hilary Swank, along with oddities such as Gucci bicycles, sledges and scuba-diving fins.

This imposing 13th-century building, erstwhile prison and torture chamber, was opened as a museum in 1865 to celebrate Florence becoming capital of Italy. Today, it is to 14th- to 17th-century sculpture what the Uffizi Gallery is to Renaissance painting; it houses one of the most important collections in the city.

But it doesn’t finish there; you can also expect an eclectic and fascinating haul of the decorative arts from Islamic art to glittering Byzantine and Renaissance jewellery, ivories, textiles, ceramics  and miniature bronzes.

Florence’s oldest bridge spans the Arno at its narrowest point and was spared from bombing by the retreating Germans after World War II. Thronged with tourists, it is famous for its glittering gold shops which replaced the original foul-smelling butcher’s shops in the 1590s.

Named after one of the most famous scientists in history, this museum holds a collection of more than 1,000 scientific instruments and related objects inherited from the Medici family and Lorraine dynasty.

Highlights include Ludovico Buti’s optical trick, a portrait of a man in a ruff that becomes a woman in the mirror; gruesome wax models of foetuses in the womb for 18th-century medical students; and two preserved fingers belonging to Galileo Galilei himself.

The fortified hilltop town of Volterra boasts an impressive setting atop a 530-metre outcrop, set in an area rich in mineral and alabaster deposits. Steeped in history, it was a very wealthy Etruscan, then Roman settlement, but the town today dates mainly from the 12th and 13th centuries.

It’s ideal to gently explore on foot; combine dipping into the Roman remains and historic churches with a leisurely coffee or lunch on the impressive main square, Piazza Martiri della Liberta.

Close to Palazzo dei Priori (which looks like a miniature version of Florence’s Palazzo Vecchio) is the 13th-century Cathedral and its Baptistery.

This beautiful 3-hour walk leads through farmland and vineyards (this is Brunello wine country), passing old farmhouses and tiny stone hamlets that seem caught in a time warp.

It begins in the lovely old town of Montalcino, famous for its production of red Brunello wines. There is only a short stretch on an asphalt road; otherwise, there is no traffic, just eyefuls of glorious scenery and a feeling of being very much away from it all. The route finishes at the ravishing abbey of Sant’Antimo, where, if you are lucky, you can hear the resident monks singing Gregorian chant at evensong.

For centuries, the Oltrarno neighbourhood south of the river has been known for its artisan workshops, originally established to furnish and decorate the grand palazzi that were built in the area by local aristocrats.

While bureaucracy and rising rents have forced many to re-locate, the narrow streets around Piazza Santo Spirito, Piazza della Passera and Borgo San Frediano are still home to cabinet makers, furniture restorers, picture framers, upholsterers, book-binders and so on.

It’s fun to wander and observe these master craftsmen and women at work; most are happy for you to go into their workshops and have a chat.

Housed in the basement of vast, 13th-century Palazzo Spini-Feroni, the Ferragamo dynasty’s headquarters, this small museum displays rotating exhibits from Salvatore Ferragamo’s archives of 10,000 shoes (the Florence-based footwear maestro usually created a pair and a spare). Close up, the shoes resemble sculptures, in experimental materials from nylon fishing line to cellophane.

Highlights include 18-carat gold sandals made for a magnate’s wife, and footwear created for Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe.

Tuscany is famed for its timeless, rolling landscapes, dotted with ancient villages, farmhouses and castles. Silently drifting 1,000-2,000 feet above them in a hot-air balloon offers a unique and all-encompassing perspective to truly appreciate them, that you just don’t get from the ground.

Flights last about an hour, then it’s back down to earth for a hearty breakfast and glass of Prosecco.

Built from tuff rock and founded by the Etruscans in the 8th century BC, Pitigliano, Sorano and Sovana are a fascinating trio of towns set in a remote south-eastern corner of Tuscany. Evidence of the Etruscans is all over the area in local museum collections, the many necropoli and the mysterious Vie Cave.

Pitigliano, built on sheer cliffs, eventually passed into the hands of the Medici; a Jewish ghetto was established here in 1608, relics of which can still be seen today. The Archaeological Museum houses a haul of local Etruscan finds.

The heyday of Sovana came in the 13th century under the Aldobrandeschi family who built the now-ruined castle. A gem of a village, it has an impressive 12th-century town hall and a lovely Romanesque Duomo.

Cliff-top Sorano is reached via a dramatic road that winds in and out of deep gorges. The old town is partly derelict thanks to a series of landslides; its charming, quiet lanes are dotted with artists’ studios and workshops.

The precise purpose of the mysterious Etruscan walkways known as the vie cave (passageways gouged into the tuff rock) is not clear, but a walk through one of these deep channels, some of which are 20m deep and a kilometre long, is a memorable experience. The most famous are the Cavone, Poggio Prisca and San Sebastiano near Pitigliano.

Laid out on the hill that stretches up behind the Pitti Palace, this 16th-century former playground for the Medici family is one of the most beautiful gardens in Italy.

This shady green oasis makes a wonderful escape on a hot, summer’s day and is criss-crossed by pathways, dotted with fountains and scattered with lichen-covered statues.

At the top is the walled Giardino del Cavaliere with wonderful views over the rural outskirts of Florence. Walk down via the Neptune fountain and the amphitheatre which was built to hold Medici court spectacles.

This 16th-century palazzo is home to one of Italy’s most innovative public art galleries. Rotating exhibitions showcase artists as diverse as Jeff Koons, Ai Wei-Wei and Bill Viola and Bronzino, Donatello and Pontormo. The ‘Strozzino’ gallery in the basement focuses on contemporary art and peripheral cultural events.

Strozzi is family-friendly with frequent activities for kids, and a good courtyard café.

Villa La Foce was once home to Marchese Antonio Origo and his Anglo-American biographer wife Iris who, in 1925, commissioned renowned English architect Cecil Pinsent to make a garden. The glorious result overlooks the Val d’Orcia and Monte Amiata and is open to visitors.

This famous pharmacy, established by Dominican friars in Florence in 1221 and housed in a 13th-century frescoed chapel, has served up herbal remedies and therapeutic treatments to Florentines for centuries. The signature soaps, potpourri, lotions, potions and herbal remedies make brilliant gifts to take home.

This imposing palace on Piazza della Signoria has been at the centre of power in Florence since its construction in 1299 and still functions as the town hall. Now partly a museum, its sumptuously decorated rooms reveal magnificent frescoes, coffered ceilings and hidden chambers. Book skip-the-line tickets online here.

Siena’s principal market, held each Wednesday morning, is one of the best in Tuscany. Stalls are set up at La Lizza, filling the streets around the Fortezza. Apart from excellent produce (cheeses, charcuterie, olive oil and wines, fruit and vegetables), you’ll find clothing, shoes, bags and household items.

A 15th-century palazzo housing more than 1,500 artworks, one of Italy’s foremost collections includes an array of dazzling Sienese fondi d’oro paintings (with gilded backgrounds). Expect works by Guido da Siena, Lorenzetti, Sodoma and Beccafumi.

Known for its highly-prized (and often expensive) DOCG Brunello wine, Montalcino is one of the most famous wine-growing areas in Tuscany. Many of the local wine estates are open for tastings; among the best are Casato Primedonne, Casanova di Neri, Biondi Santi Tenuta Greppo and Castello di Banfi. Visits must be booked in advance.

Made famous by Frances Mayes’s Under the Tuscan Sun, Cortona is a delightful hill town perched above the Val di Chiana packed with sights (the Duomo, the Museo Diocesano, the Palazzo del Popolo) and excellent restaurants.

The Bolgheri region was where the first so-called ‘Super-Tuscan’ wine was made in the 1980s, and it continues to be exported around the world. The village of Bolgheri is postcard pretty; wine estates to visit include Ornellaia (book well ahead), Podere Sapaio and Le Macchiole.

This small, enchanting village, situated on a hill above the Val d’Orcia, is famous for its central square, which is a large pool filled with hot springs water. You can’t bathe in it these days, so head for Hotel Posta Marcucci instead.

A cooking school based in Certaldo (southwest of Florence) offering truffle-hunting experiences in the Chianti woods, followed by a truffle-based lunch or cooking lessons with truffles.

Gelato (ice cream) was invented in Florence in the 16th-century, where it first appeared during banquets at the Medici court. For five days in late May, this festival celebrates this fact with a festival dedicated to all things gelato (including frozen cocktails).

An atmospheric hilltop town dating back to Etruscan times, a tangle of medieval streets lies between the fortified walls, home to historic churches and a clutch of excellent restaurants and cafes.

Colle Val d’Elsa Food writer/blogger and photographer Giulia Scarpaleggia and her husband run the excellent ‘Jul’s Kitchen’ offering a range of hands-on cooking classes alongside courses in food writing and photography. Classes are held in their house in the countryside between Siena and Florence.

The magnificent Gothic, zebra-striped Duomo houses a celebrated polychrome floor, often covered for protection but normally visible in August and September. Look out for Nicola Pisano’s superb marble pulpit and the young Michelangelo’s Piccolomini altar.

The Chiarentana Estate lies in a magical setting overlooking the Val d’Orcia to Monte Amiata and produces superb Extra Virgin olive oil. Book a tasting in advance or drop by to purchase oil. Many of the wine estates in Chianti also produce excellent olive oil

A 20-km stretch of unspoilt, wild beaches backed by the wooded Monti dell’Uccellina and a nature reserve, with superb hiking, cycling and riding trails. From mid-June to mid-September there are guided tours only.

The octagonal, Romanesque Baptistery, thought to originate in the Dark Ages, is one of Florence’s oldest buildings. It is famous for its three sets of ornate bronze doors although the ones you see today are copies (the originals are in the Cathedral Works Museum).

The first floor of Florence’s traditional produce market, Centrale Mercato, was transformed in 2014 into a dazzling food hall where producers offer everything from freshly-made mozzarella, truffle pasta, barbequed ribs, artisan bread and cheeses to hand-made chocolates. Pair a guided tour (to find ingredients) with a Tuscan cooking class after.

The most important church in Lucca. Begun in the 11th-century, it has a magnificently carved marble façade and houses the tomb of Ilaria Carretto, a beautiful work in marble by Jacopo della Quercia.

The picture gallery houses a collection of 12th- and 15th-century paintings from Florence and Siena. Look out for a 13th-century painted crucifix by Coppo di Marcovaldo, and paintings by Benozzo Gozzoli and Filippino Lippi.

This side chapel of Santa Maria del Carmine church (separate entrance) is decorated with world-class frescoes by 15th-century artists Masaccio, Masolino and Filippino Lippi. Highlights of these seminal works which profoundly influenced the Florentine Renaissance include Masolino’s Temptation of Adam and Eve and Masaccio’s The Tribute Money. Book ahead to climb up and see them up close.

Medieval Greve-in-Chianti lies at the northern end of the Chianti Classico area and is a bustling market town with pretty arcaded central piazza. Generally considered the centre of Chianti wine-making, it hosts a huge, annual Festa del Vino, usually on the second weekend of September.

This museum houses an important collection of Etruscan and Roman artifacts – look out for the famous ‘evening shadow’ statuette.

Dondoli has earned world-wide acclaim for the quality of its gelato, made from seasonal ingredients and the best local eggs, milk and cream. High season queues are insane, but it’s worth persisting to try unusual flavours such as Santa Fina (saffron and pine nuts) and Champelmo (pink grapefruit and champagne).

An ex-cinema houses the fabulous private model railway collection belonging to the late Marchese di San Giuliano. The centrepiece is a 280-square metre model, one of the largest in Europe; the landscaping (from mountains to seascapes) is exquisite.

Benozzo Gozzoli’s glorious fresco depicting the Procession of the Magi dates from 1459 and covers the tiny ‘Cappella dei Magi’ in Palazzo Medici-Riccardi. Painted in brilliant jewel colours, it shows a procession of richly-attired kings, knights and servants travelling through a fairytale rural landscape.

A historic cafe and pastry shop that’s been around for almost a century. It’s a great place to sample and buy panforte (the dense, flat cake made with nuts, dried fruit, spices and honey) and light, almond-y Ricciarelli biscuits.

A must-see for its collection of paintings by Lorenzetti, Simone Martini and other Sienese masters. One of the highlights is Simone Martini’s Maesta fresco (1315); another is Lorenzetti’s fresco cycle The Allegory of Good and The Effects of Bad Government (1338-40).

Opera buffs shouldn’t miss the small museum dedicated to Giacomo Puccini, Lucca’s most famous son. He’s regarded as the greatest and most successful proponent of Italian opera after Verdi.

The beautiful Benedictine abbey of Sant’Antimo lies in open countryside close to Montalcino and dates from the 8th century; the resident monks sing Gregorian chants each evening.

If you want to wallow for free, join the locals at this hotspot between the towns of Saturnia and Montemerano. The steaming waters flow down a series of terraces forming natural pools; it’s particularly atmospheric by moonlight.

The 12th-century Collegiata church has superb frescoes and a glittering interior, its vaults decorated with golden stars. The Santa Fina chapel is painted by Domenico Ghirlandaio.

Italy’s oldest musical festival and one of its most prestigious features an ever-enticing world-class offering of opera and concerts in the 1,800-seater Teatro dell Opera, supported by the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino orchestra and chorus. A must for classical music buffs.

Held on the first weekend of each month, this huge market with stalls selling everything from vintage postcards to Renaissance paintings is laid out in and around Piazza Grande, attracting vendors and buyers from all over Italy.

Annual festival celebrating local white truffles in the ‘City of Truffles’; local trufflers supply restaurants, hotels and specialist shops all over Italy. The festival takes place over the last three weekends in November with tastings, markets and prizes for the biggest truffle.

This traditional Easter festival sees a towering cart laden with fireworks pulled through the city by white oxen accompanied by a procession of flag throwers and drummers in colourful Renaissance garb. In Piazza del Duomo, a mechanical dove swoops down from the cathedral to light the blue touchpaper.

The star attraction in Volterra, in the Pinacoteca, is Rosso Fiorentino’s fabulous, seminal altarpiece Deposition, which demonstrates the artists’ astounding use of colour.

On the third weekend of the month, Piazza San Martino and the surrounding streets host a sprawling antiques market with everything from furniture and pictures to coins, jewellery and vintage clothes.

Committed foodies should look out for this annual food and drink fair held in late March that attracts producers, buyers – and droves of foodie punters – from all over Italy and beyond. Held in Fortezza da Basso.

Volterra’s Duomo may be rather dull-looking on the outside, but bypass it and you’ll miss Mina da Fiesole’s intricate Renaissance tabernacle over the high altar and some beautiful woodcarving. There’s also a marble pulpit by the Pisano family.

French artist Niki di Saint Phalle’s sculpture park is filled with her whimsical artworks, set near the pretty town of Capalbio. Some of the 22 monumental, colourful figures tower above the surrounding olive trees; together they represent the major arcana of the Tarot deck.

This ex-hospital building was founded in the 9th century (making it one of Europe’s oldest), and only closed relatively recently; the author Italo Calvino died here in 1985. It houses an excellent archaeological museum and the wonderful ‘Pilgrim’s Hall’ decorated with 15th-century frescoes depicting the history of the hospital.

Set in glorious countryside close to Pienza, this farm produces pecorino cheese and runs courses in cheese, bread, pizza and fresh pasta-making, alongside more generic cooking classes and truffle-hunting. There’s also an excellent restaurant with menus based on local organic ingredients.

This roofless, abandoned 13th-century Cistercian abbey is known for its ‘sword in the stone’ legend. Dissolved in 1600, subsequently, the roof, marble facade and bell tower collapsed, leaving beautiful travertine columns and pointed arches. It’s a romantic, hugely atmospheric spot.

For visitors who want to learn to make as well as eat the local specialities, this cooking school is a good place to start. Hands-on classes taught by pro chefs include making pasta, pizza, gelato, Tuscan meat and vegetarian. You can opt to tour the Central Market first too.

Four generations of the Savini family have hunted truffles, and their ‘Truffle Experience’ tours take guests into the woods to watch the highly-trained dogs at work before returning to feast on truffle-based specialities. Can also be combined with wine-tasting at the nearby Monterosola winery.

Located a minute’s walk from Piazza del Campo and occupying a former grocer’s shop with a retro vibe, Le Logge is a classic osteria. They offer a creative take on regional dishes such as tagliatelle with Tuscan ragu, stuffed rabbit with blueberries, black garlic and fermented carrot and braised beef cheek.

Seasonal fruit, local ingredients and organic milk, cream and eggs are the mainstays of this artisanal ice cream. Flavours vary with the seasons, but look out for the sinful De Bondt chocolate and candied orange peel and the pistachio ice creams, and the refreshing Sicilian-style granitas (almond, maybe) in summer.

One of the greatest of all Italian fresco cycles is housed in the barnlike church of San Francesco in central Arezzo. Piero della Francesca’s Legend of the True Cross decorates the choir, taking fourteen years from 1452-1466. Recent restoration works mean the frescoes are in superb condition.

Piero della Francesca’s extraordinary 1445 Pregnant Madonna is housed in the modest town museum in the medieval village of Monterchi. It depicts a weary Virgin in her ninth month, one hand on her swollen belly.

Sansepolcro’s unassuming town museum houses two of the most celebrated works by Piero della Francesca who was born in the town sometime between 1410 and 1420; his Resurrection and Maddona della Misericordia. A must-see for devotees of the artist.

Andrea Slitti is one of the most respected artisan chocolate-makers in Italy. His base is the spa town of Monsummano Terme (in the middle Tuscany’s so-called ‘Chocolate Valley’), where he has a café and shop piled with a tempting array of his products.

This hole-in-the-wall ice cream shop (on pretty Piazza della Passera in the Oltrarno) dishes up some of the best gelato in the city centre, all made in small batches from fresh ingredients and without any kind of artificial flavourings. Think pistachio, pink grapefruit, zabaglione and coffee; flavours move with the seasons.

A historic, atmospheric old café famous for its tiny, delicate truffle sandwiches, best sampled with a glass of the house (Antinori) fizz. You can also buy fresh truffles here when in season.

This tiny, off-piste café and pasticceria with its old-fashioned atmosphere and green boiserie makes some of the best cakes and pastries in the city. It’s famous for its divine flourless chocolate cake, but also for fruit tarts, puff pastry sfoglie, buttery croissant and excellent coffee.

This small wine bar specialises in wines from small, independent producers and always has something interesting on offer. Order one of the bubbling, melted cheese-topped crostini to soak it up; the one with truffle-infused sausage is particularly good.

Brunelleschi’s last church – with its iconic blank façade-was mostly completed after the architect’s death in 1442. Its vast, serene grey and white interior features 35 columns in pietra serena, 38 chapels and an elaborate high alter. Look out for Filippino Lippi’s Madonna and Child with Saints.

The beautiful but little-visited 14th-century Santa Trinita (Holy Trinity) houses several artistic gems. The Sassetti chapel has scenes from the life of St. Francis (1495) by Ghirlandaio while the altarpiece shows his famous Adoration of the Shepherds (1485). Lorenzo Monaco decorated the Bartolini-Salimbene chapel in 1422.

Crowned by Alberti’s magnificent, swirling marble façade, this lofty Dominican church with its ranks of striped columns, houses several extraordinary works of art including Masaccio’s seminal Trinità fresco (1424-25), Giotto’s Crucifix (ca. 1300), and frescoes (1485-90) in the Sanctuary. Book a private guided tour here.

Perched on a hill with spectacular city views, this 1,000-year-old church houses a 13th-century mosaic in the apse, frescoes by Paolo Uccello and an intricate intarsia marble floor featuring zodiac symbols. Catch the Gregorian chant at 5.30pm (4.30pm in winter), then take in the sunset views.

Brunelleschi’s 1420 church of San Lorenzo was commissioned by the Medici, but Michelangelo’s projected façade was left unfinished, hence the rough brick you see today. The classical grey and white interior houses several masterworks including two bronze pulpits by Donatello. Michelangelo’s adjacent Laurentian library is a must-see. Book a private guided tour here.

Built in 1294, Santa Croce is the largest Franciscan basilica in Italy and is famed for its frescoes by Giotto in the Bardi and Peruzzi chapels. It was the favoured burial place of many past illustrious citizens including  Michelangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli, Ghiberti and Rossini. Book an entry ticket here, or a private guided tour here.