Nice 5-day Itinerary

Nice’s food and flower market, held along the pedestrianised Cours Saleya esplanade, is packed with all the vibrant, sensuous colours, flavours and scents of the south: lavender, marzipan, sugared almonds, spices, herbal teas, takeaway socca and pissaladiere snacks. Held Tuesday to Sunday, around 6.30am to 1.30pm.

Just under Nice’s Mont Boron, this spectacular restaurant looks like something out of a fantasy, topping a 6m rocky pillar in the sea with remarkable views. It’s pricey, a bit touristy, but unique (and cheaper at lunch).

World-renowned French artists Henri Matisse, like Picasso, is credited with revolutionising the visual arts in the 20th century. Many of his best works were painted at the turn of the 20th century, using his unique blend of intense colour, flattened form and decorative pattern.

Set in a grand 17th-century Genoese mansion, Nice’s Matisse Museum opened in 1963, containing works that Matisse left to his adopted city, where he lived from 1917 to 1954.

It isn’t focused heavily on his most famous works – instead, you’ll see how the artist’s style evolved over the years: touching on his bold, colourful paintings, gouache cut-outs, drawings, prints, and 57 sculptures (nearly all of his output). Steps lead down to the modern wing, built atop the city’s Roman ruins.

Housed in a low, modest-looking building among pretty Mediterranean gardens, this museum houses the painter Marc Chagall’s remarkable cycle of 17 glowing, colour-drenched paintings inspired by the Bible. This permanent collection is the biggest public collection of works by the artist anywhere.

One of the greatest artists of the 20th century, Chagall has an entirely unique style that borrowed from many schools of modern art, including Cubism, Fauvism, Symbolism, Surrealism, Orphism and Futurism.

The artist was heavily inspired by the Cote d’Azur, and lived in nearby Vence from the 1940s to the 1980s, becoming a key part of the region’s rich art scene.

Replete with Chagall’s trademark folk symbolism, the colour-saturated, dreamlike works in Nice’s pristine white museum have a special magic, especially the brilliant red Song of Songs.

Stunning after its recent restoration, the Negresco’s Chantecler restaurant is helmed by one of France’s top female chefs, Michelin-starred Virginie Basselot, whose cuisine deftly combines classic and contemporary. With its superb wines and service, dining here is an unforgettable experience.

Conceived as Nice’s answer to Paris’s Pompidou Centre, MAMAC’s twin towers – connected by a sculptural glass facade – contain a core collection of intriguing art from the 1950s to the present.

Stroll through some 1,400 bold, edgy works by the likes of Ben, Yves Klein, Christo, Niki de Saint-Phalle, Dine, Warhol, Oldenburg, Lichtenstein, Rauschenberg, Tiguely and Kelly, framed by luminous white-cube rooms – and don’t miss the striking public art on your way in. MAMAC also holds frequent, excellent temporary exhibitions.

Chosen as the best wine cellar in France in 2020,  the ‘Angels’ Share’ specialises in natural wines and organic beers,  with great snacks at the wine bar; the bistro offers ten different wines daily by the glass to go with lunch.

In 1946, Picasso was invited to use the 14th-century Grimaldi Castle in Antibes – perched high on the one-time acropolis of the ancient Greek city of Antipolis – as a studio.

It was a happy period for the artist and in spite of a shortage of art supplies, he made do with what he could find, painting joyful Cubist scenes of fauns, nymphs and centaurs inspired by Greek mythology.

Now a museum, the castle’s collection shows the fruits of this era, its artworks infused with optimism and a Mediterranean colour spectrum.

Jan-Hendrik van der Westhuizen was the first South African chef to receive a Michelin star. Inspired by his grandmother’s cooking, he creates dazzling original dishes, but book early to have a chance to try them: there are only 24 seats.

Villa Massena, a lavish Second Empire palace (built circa 1900), was donated to Nice by the aristocratic Massena family, to house the city’s Museum of Art and History. A beautiful and intriguing building in itself, the villa’s 20 rooms now retrace the history of Nice through more than 1,500 exhibits – ranging from furniture to decorations and artworks.

Historic figures Napoleon and Garibaldi (the latter born in Nice) get plenty of attention – Napoleon’s letters to his wife Josephine, along with some of her clothes, are particularly interesting – and there are fascinating photos and relics from the resort’s early days.

This character-filled, medieval village is one of the oldest in the South of France, and arguably the loveliest of all the ‘perched’ villages. It’s a place to wander narrow, cobblestone streets, past ancient stone houses, admiring the stunning vistas of the Cote d’Azur.

There’s also a vibrant art scene here. Indeed, it’s long been a haven for famous actors, film stars, and artists – Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse and Marc Chagall all lived here.

The Maeght Foundation and several other excellent modern and contemporary art museums are also located nearby.

Set in a sublime garden amid playful mosaics, fountains and sculptures by Calder, Giacometti, Pol Bury and Tal Coat, the Maeght Foundation is itself a masterpiece.

Designed in 1964 by Josep Lluis Sert, a student of Le Corbusier, this striking building’s luminous white rooms are filled with natural light – the ideal setting for bold, colour-packed art by the likes of Braque, Chagal, Leger, Bonnard and Miro.

Outside, there’s a sculpture garden, with rotating works by world-renowned sculptors such as Jean Arp, Eduardo Chillida, Erik Dietman, Barbara Hepworth and Joan Miro.

Kids will love the garden with its Miro maze and Pol Bury fountain.

Nice was part of Italy until 1860, so perhaps it’s not surprising that friendly, unpretentious spot makes perhaps the best pizza in France. No website, no reservations, no phone; just join the queue at 46 Boulevard Stalingrad.

This delightful pink pastiche of an Italianate villa was built in 1912 by the flamboyant art collector Baroness Beatrice Ephrussi de Rothschild, to house her fabulous collection of 18th-century art and furniture. Set on the highest point of high-net-worth playground Cap Ferrat, it’s a gilded, fondant fantasy for fans of kitsch design and architecture, and a fun stop on a tour of the Cote d’Azur.

The villa’s gardens, terraced out of the rock, are equally remarkable, divided into little worlds of their own: exotic, English, Florentine Spanish, Provencal, Japanese, and French, with a musical fountain that plays every 20 minutes.

Sheltered from the wind, this shingle beach in a beautiful, wooded cove is a laid-back favourite of both locals and celebrities. Views across to the Alps are sublime. It’s part public, but best to splurge on a lounger at the delightful Paloma Beach Club – a local institution with an excellent restaurant.

Starting at the quarry used to build Monaco’s port, this beautiful 4.8km circular path follows the wild, rocky southern tip of Cap Ferrat, and lasts around two hours. You’ll pass several highlights of the peninsula, including the fabulous Grand Hotel du Cap, the picturesque Cap Ferrat lighthouse, and the wave-splashed Pointe Malalongue.

By the sandy, foliage-framed Plage de Passable beach, cross east over the peninsula onto Avenue Denis Semeria (past the Villa des Cèdres and its botanical gardens, once home to notorious Leopold II of Belgium), and on to St-Jean.

Rolling Stones fans can gaze at Villa Nellcote, where the album Exile on Main Street was recorded: from the Plage de Passable, turn left on Avenue Denis Semeria and walk 1km to Avenue Louise Bordes. For an easier stroll in the area, there’s a pretty 3km walk from Paloma Beach to the 11th-century chapel of Saint Hospice, following the eastern protrusion of the coast just south of St-Jean.

Get above it all on the picturesque, human-scale, and wonderfully scenic Train des Pignes.

The historic steam engine takes 90 minutes to chug from Puget-Theniers to Annot, and on special occasions goes as far Le Fugeret.

Along the way, you pass through verdant French countryside, peppered with mountains and gorges, olive-oil mills and walled villages.

Choose to disembark at medieval Entrevaux with its citadel, or Annot and Le Fugeret for lovely walks.

It’s a spectacular route and a great day out in the South of France: kids love it too.