Marrakech 3-day itinerary

With more than 2,500 stalls and shops crammed into a labyrinth of narrow streets, which in turn are also rammed with people, donkeys and mopeds, it’s easy to feel intimidated in the souks. Don’t be. Virtually every type of trade and craft is being practiced here; there are blacksmiths, carpenters, weavers, carpet sellers, purveyors of magic potions and natural cosmetics, fruit and vegetable traders and many more.

To visit the souks is to experience the real heart of this ancient city. There are other souks in Morocco but this is one of Morocco’s liveliest and most special.

The hammam (steam bathhouse) has been an integral part of Islamic, notably Arabic, culture for centuries. Inspired by the Roman thermae, a bathhouse would include a cold room, a warm room and a hot room; in the latter, heat is produced by furnaces to supply hot water and steam.

The signature Marrakech hammam experience starts with a stint in the steam room, but then progresses to a special detoxication treatment; first, a scrub with locally-made black soap (containing olive oil) to prepare the skin for a gommage (exfoliation) with a kessa glove. After, locally-sourced rhassoul clay is applied, followed by a massage with local Argan oil.

For locals, a visit to the bathhouse is more than just a spa treatment. It serves three key purposes: one for hygiene, second for cleansing for before religious ablution before prayer, and third as a meeting place for the local community.

Marrakech’s UNESCO World Heritage-listed central square epitomises the exotic allure of the city. From dawn until well after dusk it hums with activity, like an open-air theatre.

The scene here has changed little down the centuries; snake charmers, Gnaoua musicians, magicians and myriad other performers congregate here, mainly for local audiences – though at peak times it’s very touristy.

By early evening part of the square becomes a giant open-air kitchen and is given over to countless food stalls serving local specialities. The Medina’s famous souks start on its fringes.

There’s no better way to immerse yourself in Moroccan life than staying in a riad; the traditionally-designed townhouses that line the twisting alleyways of the medina. Rooms are set around an internal courtyard – traditionally divided into four quarters, with a small fountain at the centre and filled with plants and greenery.

Traditionally, Islam forbids any external show of wealth when it comes to property, so all riads – even the most upscale and ornate – are hidden behind plain walls. This adds to the tantalising sense of stepping into a hidden oasis; riads are designed to be cool and quiet – a cocoon from the frenetic streets outside.

Riads vary hugely in style; many have swapped the traditional mosaic tiling and tadelakt plasterwork for a more contemporary, minimalist feel, but what almost all have in common is a rooftop terrace. These are the places to experience Moroccan a sunset, when the Atlas Mountains shimmer in the distance and the call to prayer echoes up from the mosques; Marrakech at its bewitching, enigmatic best.

Marrakech is world-renowned for fine craftsmanship – notably homewares, textiles, and natural beauty products. Browsing and haggling in the souks is of course a must-do, but why not also try your hand at making your own?

Hands-on workshop with local maalem (master craftsperson) will teach you the techniques involved in some of Morocco’s most classic crafts – zellig tilework, carved cedarwood, carpet weaving, and even tadelakt (plaster finishing). For those interested in beauty products, there are also workshops to make Marrakech’s famous ‘black soap’, Oriental wax or ghassoul (a body-cleansing clay).

Whatever you end up making – babouche slippers, jewellery, carpet, a zellig tivet, or a hammered bowl – all participants leave each workshop with their own unique souvenir.

Workshops can be three or five hours long, depending on the depth of knowledge desired – although three hours is usually plenty. Classes take place onsite in the small studios of local artists’ workshops (where you can also browse and purchase some other goods produced).

Luxuriant twelve-acre botanical gardens designed by French artist Jacques Majorelle who lived here in the 1920s and 1930s. Also once owned by the fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent.

Fashion lovers queue up to step inside this architectural jewel box, which pays homage to the famed designer. Yves Saint Laurent always credited Marrakech as a source of inspiration, and returned to the city frequently, residing in the nearby Villa Oasis inside the Majorelle Gardens.

The interior of the museum resembles a catwalk, complete with energetic music and audio interviews with YSL. The permanent collection features enviable evening gowns, capes and pantsuits divided by collection, while an impressive curiosity cabinet is filled with accessories to complete the looks. In the theatre, footage from previous fashion shows and interviews is shown on a loop.

Alongside the permanent collection, there is also a programme of temporary exhibitions, highlighting artists who made their home in the city, including Jacques Majorelles and works by Christo. Temporary exhibitions change twice a year, while the permanent collection featuring YSL garments changes annually.

The windowless exterior, designed by KO Studios, is intricately designed to capture the city’s famous light throughout the day, using the same techniques as a traditional medina house.

The Agafay Desert, with its gentle rolling hills, the odd palm tree dotting the landscape, and the Atlas Mountains hovering in the background (snow-capped during winter months), is a complete contrast to bustling Marrakech just 45 minutes away. Trekking across the lunar-like landscapes, before dinner beneath the star-scattered desert sky is a memorable and unique experience.

Your evening begins with a 45-minute guided camel trek, transporting guests from the desert outskirts to a luxury camp, where dinner – a selection of Moroccan salads followed by tajine or grilled meats – is served with a view. Dinner is served under the starry sky or inside a traditional Bedouin tent, depending on the season. Evenings often include local musicians who play traditional songs with infectious, vibrant rhythms.

Several luxury camps provide glamping options for travellers looking for an overnight option.

For fans of hot-air ballooning, floating over the dramatic, arid landscapes and traditional Berber villages surrounding Marrakech just might become the most memorable experience of your stay: the views stretch mile upon mile, with the High Atlas Mountains strung out on the horizon.

Morning hot-air balloon rides are often followed by a traditional meal in a Berber village.

Tranquil Medina riad housing an interesting collection of photographs documenting Moroccan life from the 1870s-1950s, that gives the best insight into life in the city before tourism arrived.

This splendid former medersa (a Koranic school where students memorise the Koran) was founded by the Merenid Sultan Abou el Hassan in the 14th century. However, it was under the Saadian rulers in the 1560s that the school was renovated to the extraordinary level that visitors can marvel at today.  

The Andalusian architectural details, such as the stucco plasterwork featuring Arabic inscriptions and the colourful mosaics, are wonderfully preserved and worth taking time to appreciate.