Madrid

Madrid is at its best in spring and autumn, when the sun usually shines and temperatures range from around 18°C to 25°C – ideal weather for eating out and late-night drinks at pavement cafés. Many locals escape to the coast during July and August, when it becomes uncomfortably hot, even at night. On the plus side, there’s less pollution and some great street festivals. Many shops and restaurants close for at least a fortnight during this period.

Owing to Madrid’s altitude, winter is colder than you might expect, but the city’s cultural scene stays in full swing.

Barajas International Airport is 12km from the city centre. Taxis are the quickest way into the centre – though traffic is often heavy, so allow 20-30 minutes to get to a downtown location. It takes about an hour to get to the centre by metro: at Nuevos Ministerios, change to Line 10 for the two main stations, Gran Via and Sol. The 24-hour bus service takes about 40 minutes, with stops at Plaza de Cibeles and Atocha station.

You can walk between most of the major museums, shopping and nightlife areas. Madrid’s metro and buses are efficient and easy to use, but they’re often packed and pickpocketing is common. Taxis are plentiful and reasonably priced. There’s no need for a car in the centre and parking is difficult – there’s a strictly enforced pay-and-display system for street parking. If you insist on hiring a car, book a hotel with a garage.

Plaza Santa Ana is a great area to stay for a first visit, as it’s near the major museums and the shopping area around Puerta del Sol – it’s also packed with tapas bars and restaurants. There are a lot of hotels along the Gran Via – which is also handy for sights and shops – but it’s rather brash and not as atmospheric as Plaza Santa Ana.

The Salamanca area is more upmarket, less frenetic and will suit luxury shoppers. The upper part of the Paseo de la Castellana is more suitable for business trips.

Plaza Santa Ana and the surrounding streets are good for tapas bars and live music. Malasaña is lively too, with dozens of bars and restaurants. Chueca is the main gay area, but certainly not exclusively so, and is packed with bars and cafés. Los Austrias, particularly along Cava Baja, is also excellent for tapas and bars. Restaurants and bars in and around the Puerta del Sol and Plaza Mayor tend to be touristy, and best avoided.

High-street shops are packed around Calle Preciados, Puerta del Sol and Gran Via. The old centre (Los Austrias) has the most traditional shops. Find designer boutiques in Salamanca and in the grid formed by Serrano, Jorge Juan, Ortega y Gasset and Velázquez. Some of Spain’s most interesting designers are in the Salesas area, around Almirante and Conde de Xiquena. Fuencarral is lined with funky shops, and Malasana and Triball are sprouting cool new boutiques.

Madrid is a great shopping destination for shoes, bags, clothes, Spanish wines and gourmet foods such as Iberico ham and artisan cheeses.

The Madrid Card gives free or discounted access and priority entrance to more than 50 museums and attractions, plus discounts at various shops and restaurants, so it’s worth a look if you plan to see a handful of museums.