Scottish Highlands 9-day Itinerary

It’s not exactly the Serengeti, but head out on a mountain safari with a kilted ranger on a 250,000-acre Highland estate and you can still notch up plenty of wildlife sightings, and get a sense of the sheer scale of one of Europe’s last great wildernesses.

As you bump down the mountain tracks, looking for magnificent red deer or golden eagles soaring overhead, your guide will also weave tales of the areas fascinating geology and history.

You can also go on foot – they offer a 4-hour guided wilderness walk with a safari ranger, which includes a picnic.

This picture-perfect, white-turreted fairytale castle has a history stretching back to medieval times – it was supposedly built in 1269. The ancestral home of Clan Murray and the historic seat of its chief the Dukes of Atholl, the castle contains 30 rooms filled with the fascinating legacy of 19 generations of the Clan: weapons, armour, paintings, furniture and even needlework.

You can climb the spiral stairs for a behind-the-scenes attic tour, follow a sculpture trail through the grounds, or wander the beautifully restored 9-acre Georgian walled garden, recognised as being of national artistic and historical significance. They include a walled garden, wooded grove, and red deer park. Look out for peacocks, red squirrels, and the famously shaggy Highland cattle.

Highland Perthshire is a hotbed of foodie enclaves and field-to-fork ventures. This boutique hotel is the sister property to Ballintaggart Farm, a rustic restaurant with rooms and a cookery school just down the road. In 2018, the Grandtully Hotel, an old Victorian hotel in need of a revamp, joined the stable.   

It’s now a contemporary, country-chic eight-bedroom gourmet escape, the restaurant dishing up a daily changing menu of seasonal Scottish dishes, showcasing the best local artisan produce.

It’s also got a buzzing bar, the Tully, with a list of creatively-concocted, hand-crafted cocktails to work your way through. Ideal for weekending bar-flies and feasting foodies. 

Tramp up a mountain slope to see Britain’s only herd of free-ranging reindeer, re-introduced by a Swedish herder in 1952, roaming the Cairngorm National Park. It might sound family-focused, but it’s so unspoilt and charming – the reindeers’ velvety noses nuzzling you – that even the most hardened cynic will melt.

Guided hill tours last about 2 hours – it’s a 30-minute to get to the herd. For those who don’t fancy schlepping up a mountainside, there are a number of reindeer kept year-round in a paddock at the centre.

On the edge of Aviemore in the Cairngorms the rustic-chic Rothiemurchus Estate farm shop, cafe and deli sells beef and venison from their farm along with a range of local artisan produce – such as Inshriach gin.

When this tired Victorian hotel in Braemar was given a revolutionary redesign by Swiss gallerists Iwan and Manuela Wirth, it was the most exciting hotel news to hit the Highlands this century.

Just down the road from Balmoral, the Queen’s Highland holiday home, this grand granite pad has put the eastern corner of the Cairngorms National Park back on the map for style-seekers.

The 46 rooms and suites, each inspired by local characters or famous figures who once schlepped up here – and the hotel itself, are maximalist in design, wreathed in rich fabrics, vibrant wallpaper and striking modern artworks. The cooking is equally theatrical; the restaurant’s centrepiece is a wood-fired barbecue.

It’s the ideal bolthole for extrovert art lovers and Highland history buffs with deep pockets.

The lush countryside of Speyside is home to more than half of Scotland’s malt whisky distilleries, and the only malt whisky trail in the world.

The eight on the trail include bijoux Benromach, Glenfiddich (home to the most popular whisky in the world), Cardhu (a distillery pioneered by a woman) and The Glenlivet (the first licensed distillery in Scotland). The Glen Grant distillery, founded in 1840, has a beautiful Victorian garden threaded with paths and woodland walks and a small waterfall – a lovely place to meander. One of the eight – the Dallas Dhu distillery – is a historic distillery and is not operational.

There are tastings and insights into each distillery’s unique blend, plus the Speyside Cooperage where you can watch the ancient art of barrel-making.

Edward I of England first conquered Scotland in the 13th century, and for centuries to follow, Highland history revolved around the struggle for independence from the English, led by William Wallace, Robert the Bruce and Bonnie Prince Charlie, amongst others. Its legacy is a landscape littered with battlegrounds, grand castles, ruined crofts, and rich legend.

The bloody, hour-long Battle of Culloden in 1745 – the last pitched battle on British soil – saw the final defeat of the Jacobite rebellion to secure the House of Stuart to the British throne. The famous Clans were finally suppressed – even the wearing of the kilt was outlawed.

The state-of-the-art visitor centre brings that final battle to life – you listen to characters from the battle as you wander round the exhibition. Watch the battle immersion film that vividly projects the fighting onto the walls all around you, then step outside to tramp the actual battlefield with a guide.

This 18th-century coastal fortress, still a working barracks, overlook the Moray Firth built after the Battle of Culloden to house the British army. You can wander around the complex, dipping into the regimental museum, checking out the historical tableaux depicting soldiers’ lives and climbing up onto the canon-peppered battlements.

If it weren’t for Nessie, this would be just another loch: admittedly the second largest in Scotland and the deepest, containing more water than all the lakes in England and Wales combined. But it’s the legendary Loch Ness Monster that put it on the map. There are ‘Nessie hunter’ boat trips available all around the loch.

Start your visit at the informative, award-winning Loch Ness Centre & Exhibition in Drumnadrochit for the low down, and to delve into the scientific findings. Then head off for some monster spotting, while taking in ruined castles, waterfalls and mountain trails.

Just off the winding, often a single-lane track that snakes its way along the south side of Loch Ness, this Victorian lodge has tree-fringed views over the water and cool, vintage chic interiors.

The characterful conversion, peppered with eclectic auction and antique store finds – as well as a smattering of taxidermy – gives it a theatrical vibe.

There are eight bedrooms up the grand staircase; walls daubed in dramatic tones of aubergine, forest green and teal, bare-board floors strewn with rugs, and bathrooms of Victorian porcelain.

There’s a cosy, tartan-trimmed sitting room where you can hole up with a dram, a peacock (stuffed) and a piano in the Art Deco-styled drawing room and bar.

This is one for design-conscious couples, looking for a funky Highland hideaway.

If it weren’t for Nessie, this would be just another loch: admittedly the second largest in Scotland and the deepest, containing more water than all the lakes in England and Wales combined. But it’s the legendary Loch Ness Monster that put it on the map. There are ‘Nessie hunter’ boat trips available all around the loch.

Start your visit at the informative, award-winning Loch Ness Centre & Exhibition in Drumnadrochit for the low down, and to delve into the scientific findings. Then head off for some monster spotting, while taking in ruined castles, waterfalls and mountain trails.

Skye is the largest of the Hebridean islands (48 miles by 25) – and the only one attached to the mainland by a handy bridge.

Despite the fairly remote location, there are plenty of reasons to make a beeline here. The raw grandeur of the landscape, dominated by the dramatic Cuillins range, draws munro-baggers, hikers, mountain bikers – and movie-makers; its credits include Macbeth and blockbuster fantasy, The BFG.

The Trotternish Peninsula in the island’s north is home to some of the most striking landscapes in Scotland, easily accessible from the island’s ‘capital’, the wonderfully colourful village of Portree located on its eastern coast.

The Isle is also a place of pilgrimage for gourmet travellers schlepping to the Three Chimneys or Kinloch Lodge, the home of doyenne of Scottish cookbook writing, Lady Claire Macdonald.

And then there’s the history; Bonnie Prince Charlie famously fled over the sea to Skye after his defeat at the Battle of Culloden, and 13th-century Dunvegan Castle was the traditional seat of Clan MacLeod.

This former medieval fortress, on the shore of the loch, once was the home of Scotland’s Grant Clan. Built in the 13th century, it was subsequently destroyed by the English in 1692 following the crushing of the Jacobite Rebellion at Culloden. You can watch a film of its history in the visitor centre.

Foodies have been making a pilgrimage to this legendary restaurant with rooms, founded by Scottish food heroes, Shirley and Eddie Spear, for over three decades.

In 2019 it started a new chapter when it was bought by famous Scottish hotelier, Gordon Campbell Gray who added it to his mini chain, The Wee Hotel Company.

Not that much has changed in the old whitewashed crofter’s cottage overlooking Loch Dunvegan – although you can now eat a la carte; the eight-course tasting menu is still served at the Kitchen Table.

And afterwards, you can sleep it all off in one of the six charming contemporary rooms across the courtyard in the House-Over-By.

Skye is the largest of the Hebridean islands (48 miles by 25) – and the only one attached to the mainland by a handy bridge.

Despite the fairly remote location, there are plenty of reasons to make a beeline here. The raw grandeur of the landscape, dominated by the dramatic Cuillins range, draws munro-baggers, hikers, mountain bikers – and movie-makers; its credits include Macbeth and blockbuster fantasy, The BFG.

The Trotternish Peninsula in the island’s north is home to some of the most striking landscapes in Scotland, easily accessible from the island’s ‘capital’, the wonderfully colourful village of Portree located on its eastern coast.

The Isle is also a place of pilgrimage for gourmet travellers schlepping to the Three Chimneys or Kinloch Lodge, the home of doyenne of Scottish cookbook writing, Lady Claire Macdonald.

And then there’s the history; Bonnie Prince Charlie famously fled over the sea to Skye after his defeat at the Battle of Culloden, and 13th-century Dunvegan Castle was the traditional seat of Clan MacLeod.

A short drive north of Portree on the Trotternish Peninsula is the 720m-high ‘Storr’, a large rocky outcrop that dominates the landscape. On the Storr’s steeper eastern slope you’ll find the famous ‘Old Man’ of Storr – a 50m high rock ‘tooth’. Great for a drive-by, or stopping for a walk.

This 13th-century castle – restored in the 19th century – was the traditional seat of Clan Macleod, one of the Highland’s most celebrated clans. It’s filled with Highlands clan history – portraits, weapons, and assorted clan memorabilia and heirlooms.

This famous pool, fed by the River Brittle that cascades in via a series of enchanting waterfalls, is a popular destination for walkers and wild swimmers (prepared to brave the cold). It’s a 2.5km, 40-minute return walk from the nearest car park through Glenbrittle Glen. You can also walk to it from Dunvegan Castle.

Skye punches above its weight in terms of foodie enclaves and chef Michael Smith’s Scottish seafood restaurant in the village of Stein on the Waternish peninsula – is one of the Michelin-starred highlights.

Foodies have been making a pilgrimage to this legendary restaurant with rooms, founded by Scottish food heroes, Shirley and Eddie Spear, for over three decades.

In 2019 it started a new chapter when it was bought by famous Scottish hotelier, Gordon Campbell Gray who added it to his mini chain, The Wee Hotel Company.

Not that much has changed in the old whitewashed crofter’s cottage overlooking Loch Dunvegan – although you can now eat a la carte; the eight-course tasting menu is still served at the Kitchen Table.

And afterwards, you can sleep it all off in one of the six charming contemporary rooms across the courtyard in the House-Over-By.

The most photographed castle in Scotland and, many say, the most beautiful, punches above its weight in the tourist attraction stakes. Christopher Lambert stormed across the causeway to this tiny fortress, perched on an island where three lochs meet, in Hollywood blockbuster, Highlander.

Founded in the 13th century, it was the traditional stronghold of Clan Mackenzie and their allies the Clan Macrae. Clan Mackenzie and Clan Macrae sided with the Jacobites in the unsuccessful Jacobite Rebellion, leading to the castle’s partial destruction in 1719 by British government forces during the rebellion’s repression. It was rebuilt from 1919-32 by Lieutenant-Colonel John Macrae-Gilstrap, and is now recognised as a Scottish icon.

Today, Glencoe is an adventure playground for skiers, mountaineers (munro-baggers) and walkers but this magnificent brooding glen was once the scene of one of the bloodiest massacres in Scottish history.

Thirty-eight unarmed members of the MacDonald Clan were slain in 1692 by forces loyal to King William III. The treacherous soldiers had been fed and sheltered by the Clan for 2 weeks before suddenly turning on them – just one of the many fights and switching of allegiances in the feudal clans that held power in the day.

The state-of-the-art visitor centre has exhibits and displays that depict the gruesome event, plus information on the area’s geology, wildlife and mountaineering history.

Who doesn’t want to bed down in a Highland castle? Although to be strictly accurate, this turreted pile only dates back to 1863, built by Lord Abinger close to the original 13th-century fortress. Queen Victoria was said to have taken a shine to it, however, as did celebrity guests Charlie Chaplin and Robert Redford.

It’s old-school luxury – there’s a dress code for dinner and gentlemen are requested to wear a jacket and tie – with reams of chintz, four-poster beds, a belt-busting Michelin-starred restaurant and glorious grounds.

To arrive in serious style, the hotel can arrange airport transfers from Glasgow or Edinburgh in a Rolls Royce phantom, which can also be hired for guided day tours.

It might be known affectionately as ‘the Ben’, but don’t think a tramp up Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in the British Isles, is a walk in the park. Its summit, at over 4,400ft, can be clad in snow in summer, the weather changing in a second as you zigzag up the rocky Mountain Track. However, around 125,000 people make it each year and the sense of achievement – and the views – are second to none. ‘The Ben’ is the most challenging but rewarding Munro ‘to bag’.

Go prepared though, it can be cold on the summit even if it’s sunny below so take a fleece and waterproofs. On sunny days beware of dehydration, wind and sunburn.

Who doesn’t want to bed down in a Highland castle? Although to be strictly accurate, this turreted pile only dates back to 1863, built by Lord Abinger close to the original 13th-century fortress. Queen Victoria was said to have taken a shine to it, however, as did celebrity guests Charlie Chaplin and Robert Redford.

It’s old-school luxury – there’s a dress code for dinner and gentlemen are requested to wear a jacket and tie – with reams of chintz, four-poster beds, a belt-busting Michelin-starred restaurant and glorious grounds.

To arrive in serious style, the hotel can arrange airport transfers from Glasgow or Edinburgh in a Rolls Royce phantom, which can also be hired for guided day tours.

Yes, this is the Harry Potter vintage steam train and it crosses the legendary 21-arched Glenfinnan viaduct, made famous by the films.

The Jacobite’s route up the west coast of Scotland is one of the world’s most spectacular rail journeys, an 84-mile round trip from Fort William to the little fishing village of Mallaig.

Starting in the shadow of Scotland’s highest mountain, Ben Nevis, other sights to tick off along the way include the mainland’s westernmost train station, the deepest loch and shortest river and glorious sweeps of sand that appeared in other cinematic gems, ‘Local Hero’ and ‘Highlander’.

Optional extras include pre-ordered Jacobite High teas served on the homeward leg, champagne and chocolates.

Who doesn’t want to bed down in a Highland castle? Although to be strictly accurate, this turreted pile only dates back to 1863, built by Lord Abinger close to the original 13th-century fortress. Queen Victoria was said to have taken a shine to it, however, as did celebrity guests Charlie Chaplin and Robert Redford.

It’s old-school luxury – there’s a dress code for dinner and gentlemen are requested to wear a jacket and tie – with reams of chintz, four-poster beds, a belt-busting Michelin-starred restaurant and glorious grounds.

To arrive in serious style, the hotel can arrange airport transfers from Glasgow or Edinburgh in a Rolls Royce phantom, which can also be hired for guided day tours.

Scotland’s largest loch stretches for 24 watery miles of jaw-dropping scenic splendour – just a short hop from Glasgow.

Part of the Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park (Scotland’s first national park), and sprinkled with no fewer than 30 islands, Loch Lomond offers a one-stop shop for water-based outdoor activities from sailing to canoeing, kayaking to windsurfing and more leisurely cruises across the water.

On its eastern shore rises Ben Lomond, the country’s most southerly – and popular – Munro, soaring to a height of 3,176ft.

This dramatic fortress hunkered into a volcanic crag and appearing to glower down on the town below, has real castle wow factor.

There’s no missing its might and impregnable magnificence – of key importance in medieval times. Set in a strategic location, two game-changing battles in Scotland’s fight for independence took place near here; Stirling Bridge in 1297 when William Wallace routed the English and Bannockburn in 1314 when Robert the Bruce did the same.

A painstaking restoration project recently focused on the castle’s centrepiece, a glorious 16th-century Renaissance palace.

When this grand Scottish hotel first opened in 1924 it was dubbed ‘a Riviera in the Highlands’.

Today, it’s still the ultimate Scottish resort, famous, of course, for its golf courses and Pringle-touting clientele, but also sporting a staggering range of additional activities – everything from gun dog school to falconry, wildlife photography to off-road driving.

For the more sedentary, there’s a sleek destination spa and two-Michelin-starred restaurant. It’s a one-stop holiday shop.

Unusually for a luxury hotel, Gleneagles is dog-friendly; providing a dog-bed, bowl, dog-in-residence sign for the door, doggy treats – and a pooper scooper for those walks in the ground.