Destination guide for Istanbul

April can be rainy but it’s also the prettiest month to visit Istanbul, when the Tulip Festival sees millions of blooms decorating the city. May and June are relatively mild and rain- and crowd-free. The tourist crush and summer heat are most intense in July and August, but the rooftop restaurant and club scene is in full swing. September is often lovely.

Despite being near the Mediterranean, the weather in Istanbul can be fairly unpleasant between November and March, with snow possible. Bring warm clothes, though, and you can enjoy low season prices and blissfully uncrowded museums.

Istanbul’s International Airport (IST) is 40km from the centre – around a 40-minute drive. If you’re staying near Taksim Square, the 24-hour Havas Airport shuttle takes 45-60 minutes depending on traffic. The LRT metro light rail links the airport to Aksaray, from where you can pick up a tram to Sultanahmet. Taxis are reasonably priced, but it’s worth paying a bit more for a private transfer: ask when you book your hotel.

Some flights out of the UK are to Sabiha Gokcen International Airport (SAW), which is 45km to the east of the city centre, and more like an hour’s drive. The HAVABUS Airport Shuttle runs frequent services between Sabiha Gokcen and Kadikoy, Yenisahra (metro station) and Taksim.

Although attractions in the historic Sultanahmet and Beyoglu districts are within walking distance, Istanbul is a huge city with crazy traffic – too crazy to think of cycling or hiring a car. Use ferries, buses and the metro when you can (save money with an Istanbulkart). Taxis are cheap and plentiful; minibuses and old-fashioned dolmus cars on the main streets are even cheaper, and a great way to meet the Turks. Don’t miss a ride on the antique tram that runs up Istiklal Caddesi.

Beyoglu has become the ‘in’ place to stay, with all the trendy cafés, shopping and restaurants close at hand, along with the adjacent, picturesque antiques district of Cukurcuma. Anyone more interested in the city’s culture and history might prefer the ancient centre, Sultanahmet, which is still an attractive address despite the tourist masses. Eminonu, by the train station, is convenient but dull. The newer districts and the Bosphorus villages can be lovely, but may be too far out for a first-time visit.

You can eat like a sultan anywhere in Istanbul, especially in Beyoglu: rooftop restaurants, bars and clubs overlooking the city are all the rage. Try the open-air seafood places in the Bosphorus villages – but avoid the rip-off Galata Bridge restaurants. Beyoglu is also the centre for bars and nightlife, especially around Nevizade Sokak and Asmalimescit Sokak (or simply ‘Asmali’). Or join the elite in the glamorous nightclubs along the Bosphorus in exclusive Kurucesme.

For upper-end Turkish and international boutiques, head to the Nisantasi quarter or the newest shopping malls, Kanyon and İstinye Park. The 5,000-shop, covered Grand Bazaar, Spice Bazaar and surrounding streets are good for gold, jewellery, spices and carpets. Istiklal is the place to go for art, while the nearby Cukurcuma neighbourhood is great for antiques.