Hong Kong

Visitors will swelter in summer, but that’s better than the cloying humidity, grey skies and general gloom of March and April. Then again, if you’re just here to eat and shop, the air-con is always on. Lunar New Year is now a major public celebration, with fireworks, fierce crowds and high hotel prices.

Weather-wise, September and October are the best months to come, but avoid the mainland holiday in the first week of October (Golden Week) at all costs, when thousands of tourists from the north pour into Hong Kong.

The international airport at Chek Lap Kok is rightly hailed as one of the world’s most efficient. It is linked by express train to Kowloon and Central, and journey time is 25 minutes; shuttle buses link the express stations with major hotels. Taxis are readily available at the airport, and cheap airport buses connect the airport with the main destinations in the SAR. However, be warned – both can be subject to serious traffic jams.

Much of Hong Kong is connected by the swift, inexpensive and air-conditioned Mass Transit Railway, which is complemented by an extensive public bus network. Cheap, plentiful taxis fill in the gaps. A free 800-metre outdoor escalator climbs the hill between Central Market and Mid Levels. Ferries run to Macau and other Pearl River Delta cities.

Hong Kong’s main outer islands (Lantau, Cheung Chau, Lamm, Peng Chau) are also reachable by a ferry that’s both practical and picturesque.

Most hotels are on Hong Kong Island (Central/Wanchai/Causeway Bay) or on the Kowloon peninsula. Central should be first choice, for its proximity to transport links, shopping, bars and sights. Wanchai is a little wilder (but handy for the Convention Centre), while Causeway Bay is good for shopping.

In Kowloon, the waterfront hotels command superb views, but somewhere like Mong Kok provides the full-on metropolitan experience. With the exception of Sha Tin, the airport and the Disneyland hotels, staying elsewhere is a bit too close to exile.

Central hosts three contiguous entertainment zones – Lan Kwai Fong, SoHo (South of Hollywood Road) and NoHo (North of Hollywood Road) – each hosting a plethora of excellent restaurants, bars and clubs. The streets fill with al fresco drinkers most nights of the week.

Wanchai’s bars are a tad more risqué and attract a younger, more raucous crowd. For sensational seafood dinners, head out to picturesque Lamma and Cheung Chau islands; they also make for a fun expedition.

For designer labels on Hong Kong Island head to the malls in Central (ifc, Landmark) or Admiralty (Pacific Place). In Kowloon, traditional shopping areas like Tsim Sha Tsui and Mong Kok now face competition from upscale new mega-mall Elements. For bargain hunting, tasteful and tacky souvenirs and clothing factory over-runs, head to Stanley Market. Temple Street Night Market is a tourist trap – but great fun. Don’t forget to haggle.

Hong Kong is known for jade and antiques, but fakes are a problem so always take expert advice on expensive purchases.