Provence

Provence is at its seductive best in June and the first half of July, when the lavender and sunflowers bloom and festivals are in full swing. It’s hot, but even hotter in August, when French families take their holidays and everything is packed.

April, May, September and October are delightful, uncrowded and mild. Many sights are closed down by mid-November until Easter; in winter it’s also far more likely to rain and stay overcast until the fierce mistral wind blows, often for several days in a row, gusting up to 100km per hour, but sweeping the sky crystal clear.

Marseille has Provence’s main airport, which has a shuttle to Marseilles’ train station; from here there are frequent links to Aix (35-45 minutes). Aix also has a TGV terminal, with trains from Paris arriving in only 3.5 hours.

Avignon and Arles can be reached directly via trains from Vitrolles Marseille Airport station, avoiding Marseille. Avignon’s own airport is served by low-cost carriers and linked to the city by bus. In summer, Eurostar trains go directly from London to Avignon (six hours); other times you’ll need to change.

The cities are well served by trains, and as they aren’t very car-friendly (parking is an expensive hassle), so it can work best to start in one or more of them, and then hire a car to visit the countryside, where public transport is sketchy.

Aix’s historic centre is compact, beautiful and walkable. The old walled city of Avignon is compact and easy to get around on foot. There are bike schemes by the hour.

Tour operators offer the easiest way to tour Provence’s landscapes at a slower pace – by foot, horseback or bicycle, arranging luggage transfers and hotels along the way.

First-time visitors will find it easiest to stay in one (or more) of Provence’s three art cities: Aix-en-Provence, Avignon & Arles). All are easy to walk around and filled with charming restaurants, bars and shops, and all make perfect bases for day trips or to each other. Avignon and Aix-en-Provence are handy bases for exploring the beautiful landscapes and villages of the Lubéron.

Alternatively, opt to escape the hubbub and relax in a country hotel amid gorgeous landscapes – some of the most beautiful are around Les Baux-de-Provence, St-Rémy, the Lúberon, or amid the vineyards under the Dentelles de Montmirail.

Many of the best restaurants are located in smart hotels or in fairly exclusive areas: Les Baux and the Alpilles, Saint-Remy, Aix, Avignon, and the villages of the Lubéron.

Wine lovers head to the Rhône’s banks for Gigondas, Châteauneuf du Pape, Vacqueyras and Beaumes-de-Venise, but you’ll find superb dry rosés everywhere.

Traditional local dishes include tapenade (olive and caper spread), bouillabaisse, beef stews (daube à la Provençale or taureau à la gardiane, served on Camargue rice). In winter, try the truffles.

Although the outskirts of Provence’s towns and cities are ringed with supermarkets, malls, and chain shops, the centres still have independent boutiques of all kinds, especially in chic destinations such as Aix and Saint-Remy.

Outdoor markets, while specialising in fresh food, are also good places to look for goodies to take home. Keep an eye peeled for craft fairs and weekend vide greniers (communal ‘attic emptiers’); for serious antiques, visit L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.

Olive oil, herbs, lavender products and wines are classic buys. Nineteenth-century Provence was famous for its colourful block print fabrics (indiennes), revived by Provence-based Souleiado in its many boutiques.