Destination guide for Copenhagen

Copenhagen is at its best in the summer, when locals and visitors stay out until the early hours and cultural events bring live music, dance and art to the streets. Spring and autumn are also great – even for cycling – since the days are still warm but the bulk of the tourists have departed.

But don’t discount winter; it’s a charming time to drink cups of glog in cosy bars and enjoy the Danish tradition of hygge (cosiness). The festive Christmas markets at Tivoli, and the city’s Christmas Parade, make this an excellent destination for a festive break.

Copenhagen Kastrup Airport is just 8km southeast of downtown; the train will whisk you directly to the city’s Central Station in just 15 minutes, while the Metro is also accessible from Terminal 3.

Taxis are readily available in the city and at the airport, though they tend to be expensive: a ride to the airport from the centre of town will take roughly 20 minutes. Buses are cheaper and take about 35 minutes to reach Central Station.

Copenhagen has an excellent municipal transport system, with metro and buses covering all central locations and most of those further afield. Driving your own car isn’t really recommended unless you’re planning to tour the rest of the country.

By far the most popular method of transport for Copenhageners is the bicycle. Everyone rides a bike in the city and its wide roads, with separate bike lanes, are perfectly suited to life on two wheels. Avoid the free City Bike scheme if possible; the bikes are often in bad condition. Instead, pick up a snazzy cycle at Københavns Cyklebors in Indre By.

The Copenhagen Card gives free entry to 80-plus museums and attractions, plus free airport transfers and bus, train and metro travel within the city. Buy it from the airport, station, tourist office and hotels.

Central Copenhagen hotels range from affordable, homely guesthouses to sparkling boutique boltholes and opulent, fin-de-siècle properties.

The area around the town hall in buzzing Radhuspladsen is home to a number of sleek, ultra-modern hotels, while regal old Frederiksstaden, rising from the harbourfront, is good for smaller, more affordable places. The streets around Nyhavn have a handful of unique, restored gems.

The hip neighbourhood of Vesterbro, meanwhile, is home to many of the city’s artiest cafés and bars – and some of the funkiest places to stay.

The cobbled streets of Stroget, Købmagergade and Kompagnistræde are good for sleek Scandinavian homewares, modern design objets and home furnishings – both at smaller design shops and flagship department stores.

The Norrebro neighbourhood, meanwhile, is a good bet for clothing; Jaegersborggade in Nørrebro, one of the city’s hippest and most atmospheric streets, has art galleries, the best shops, great for up-and-coming jewellery designers, and a fleamarket in spring.

Another great bet is chic Vaernedamsvej, near Vesterbro. Sometimes dubbed ‘Little Paris’ it’s filled with cafés and delicatessens intermingled outlets for local designers.

The city is generally very safe to walk around, even late at night, although pickpockets do exist. Compared to other parts of Europe, Scandinavia is one of the safest regions due to the benefits of a strong welfare state. Everyone – from the homeless to the unemployed to the very wealthy – is well taken care of by the state, meaning that few city denizens choose to resort to life on the fringes of society.