Lyon 3-day Itinerary

Vieux (old) Lyon is the most beautiful (and touristy) quarter of the city. It’s tucked in between River Saone’s west bank and the steep Fourviere hillside – a narrow slice of land crammed with beautifully preserved mansions, many dating from the 16th-century French Renaissance. It’s especially famed for its traboules, which are secretive, narrow alleyways leading between the different mansions.

The quarter reveals how Lyon thrived in the Renaissance; many of its finest houses were built for Italian silk merchants. The area has been stunningly restored, but many of the mansions have very touristy establishments on the ground floor.

Housed in Vieux Lyon’s grandest mansion, this small museum is actually two museums: the Museum of Lyon History, which traces the history of the city since medieval times, and the World Puppet Museum, with over 2,000 puppets collected over centuries.

To appreciate Lyon’s glorious riverbanks and architecture at a wonderfully relaxed pace, embark on a river cruise. The city is bisected by two rivers that join in the city itself – the Saone and the Rhone.

There are two tour options. The shorter one (on simpler boats) focuses on the romantic Saone, travelling up to the historic Barbe Island. The longer one (on more luxurious craft) takes you along a central stretch of the Rhone, providing lunch or dinner. With the longer tour, you take in a greater number of Lyon’s great monuments and quarters and get a fuller commentary.

To enjoy spectacular bird’s-eye views over Lyon, head up steep Fourviere hillside above the Saone – on clear days, you can spot Alpine foothills far to the east. The other big draw of the Fourviere hillside is that you get an overview of Lyon’s 2,000-year-old history, from Roman finds to views over contemporary quarters.

The best viewing platform stands beside Notre-Dame-de-Fourviere Basilica. This huge 19th-century church, Lyon’s most obvious landmark, is the city’s answer to Paris’s Sacre-Coeur. Nearby, incorporated into the hillside, lie two Roman theatres that still serve for contemporary entertainments. The neighbouring Lugdunum Museum on Gallo-Roman civilisation provides fascinating insights into Lyon’s ancient past.

Notre-Dame-de-Fourviere is always lit up at night, and particularly dramatically for December’s Fete des Lumieres (Light Festival). In summer, the Roman theatres host the Nuits de Fourviere festival.

With Romanesque- and Byzantine-style architecture (earning it the nickname ‘upside-down elephant’), this iconic basilica was built by Pierre Bossan (1872-1874) to thank God for France’s triumph over the socialists during the infamous ‘Communes’.

Atop the Fourviere hillside, its esplanade draws crowds to its sweeping panorama over Lyon. But inside is stunning too: pink granite, blue marble, onyx, silver and gold details that culminate in majestic stained glass windows.

Walk outside to the Rosary Gardens, an oasis of sycamores, larches and roses. Like the basilica, its dedicated to the Virgin Mary who supposedly protected Lyon from the Black Death in 1643.

Under the name of Lugdunum, Lyon was a flourishing Roman city, founded at the confluence of the Saone and Rhone rivers on Fourviere Hill in 43 BC.

Today, archaeological excavations have exposed two vastly important sites, an amphitheatre (the oldest in France from Roman Gaul) and a small theatre, both of which are now part of this fantastic museum.

In addition to the theatres, the museum houses a vast array of artefacts exposing all aspects of Roman life, from Lugdunum’s urban layout to its circus entertainment and army missions.

Lyon has over 300 miles of cycle paths, and a good stretch of them follow its watercourses to give you (by bike or on foot) spectacular views of its iconic riverfront monuments and facades.

The Rhone’s quays run between the Tete d’Or and Gerland parks – a 5-mile stretch where river gardens morph into cream-fronted urban landscapes and locals crowd the cafe terraces and party boats.

Saone side, an artwork-studded 10-mile pedestrian trail takes you along the river between the Confluences area and pretty Ile-Barbe Island, before leading you out of town to bucolic Rochetaillee-sur-Saone, where river beaches provide the perfect picnic backdrop.

The city bustle evaporates in this sumptuous park, home to rose and botanical gardens, and a savannah-themed animal park. Strolls or cycle its paths and in summer, go boating on the lake.

The hugely well-known wines of the Beaujolais region are produced northwest of Lyon. The vineyards are set in 14,500 hectares of beautiful hills west of the Saone, in 12 appellations. Many of the wine villages are stunning and well worth a visit alongside the wineries themselves.

The best-known wine areas, such as Fleury, Brouilly or Morgon lie in the north, but the vine-growing areas to the south almost surpass them in beauty. The vineyards are utterly stunning and the area blissfully unspoiled, despite Beaujolais’s famous name.

The official website documents a 140km circular wine route, through the main wine region’s attractions, and a number of lovely routes for walking and cycling.

Paul Bocuse established himself as one of France’s leading chefs in the 1960s. He was a pioneer of nouvelle cuisine, producing lighter, more innovative dishes than had traditionally been served in fine French restaurants.

You come here for the legacy of this culinary legend; he was born in the restaurant building in 1926. Since his death in 2018, the house motto is ‘tradition in motion’, with menus offering both iconic dishes and new, wow-worthy avant-garde plates.