23 Best things to see & do in Split

Facing Split’s seafront promenade, this vast 3rd-century palace – now integrated into the historic centre – was Roman emperor Diocletian’s retirement home. The emperor’s apartments overlooked the sea, while servants and soldiers occupied the rest of the complex, which centres on the Cathedral and Peristil, where Diocletian made public appearances.

Later on, medieval, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque buildings were erected within the white marble walls, and it became a city. Today, it’s a world-famous UNESCO World Heritage Site, and Split’s must-see attraction.

With sheltered waters, a steady breeze and a plethora of blissful, uninhabited islands close to the mainland, the Dalmatian islands are made for sailing.

Hoisting a sail is the ideal, and most flexible, way to explore this beautiful and still largely unspoilt archipelago, discovering secret coves, swimming in azure waters off the boat, and stopping in local towns.

Charters tend to be for a week and various itineraries are available. The main ports of call are the islands of Korcula and Hvar.

The Krka National Park, though small at only 142 sq km, is one of the most important natural habitats in Europe, home to a staggering 222 bird species, 18 different types of bat and more than 800 species of plant life.

It’s most famously home to the spectacular Skradinski Buk waterfall, where 17 cascades plunge 45m into an emerald-green basin – great for swimming. Footpaths and wooden bridges meander around the waterfalls, and lead upriver to the Roski slap waterfall (known as the ‘necklaces’ for the strange water patterns created). It’s lovely walking – look out for otters, golden eagles and peregrine falcons along the way.

A park shuttle boat connects the two waterfalls, and also stops at the tiny island in the middle of a lake capped by the 15th-century Franciscan Visovac Monastery. There’s also a 19th-century watermill with ethnographic museum.

One of the most picturesque towns in the whole of the Croatian archipelago, Hvar Town is an elegant patchwork of historic Venetian townhouses and palaces, many carefully restored, opening out onto the marble-flagged St Stephen’s square.

Behind the square, terracotta-roofed houses rise up to overlook the horseshoe-shaped harbour, lined with bars and restaurants, with wide promenades leading off in both directions to quiet coves and pine-fringed beaches.

Sightseeing is best puncuated with coffees, or a cold Posip (Croatian white wine) from one of the café terraces above the main square (Teraca is particularly good), which are perfectly-placed to watch the yachts and wooden fishing boats glide in and out of harbour.

At the days’ end, go for dinner at Maconoda, on the narrow stone alley between the main square and hilltop castle – home to the best seafood in Hvar.

Split is part of the coastal Dalmatia region, meaning local cuisine is dominated by fish and seafood. Classic Mediterranean flavours – tomatoes, parsley, garlic and rosemary – are often paired with fish.

Dalmatian ham is as salty and delicious as prosciutto; platters of ham, local cheese and olives is a popular starter. Deep-fried fritters are a favourite sweet snack, sharp with lemon zest and Schnappes.

Traditional hearty Dalmatian dishes are served in atmospheric, family-run konobas – rustic taverns with exposed stone walls and wooden tables and benches. Croatia’s Italian heritage is seen in pizzerias and gelaterias on every street.

Seafood dominates – expect high-quality shellfish, and fresh fish barbecued and served whole, plus quality local wines. Classic Mediterranean flavours – tomatoes, parsley, garlic and rosemary – are often paired with fish.

Croatia’s Italian heritage is seen everywhere, with pizzerias and gelaterias in every town.

Rising directly behind the seaside resort of Makarska, Mount Biokovo is Croatia’s second-highest mountain, with the 1,762m peak of Sveti Jure affording amazing views out to sea and inland to Bosnia-Herzegovina.

A large portion of the south-facing slopes have been declared a nature park, and clearly marked hiking paths lead from Makarska to the top. Wild and totally unspoilt, Biokovo’s pastures are populated by hardy chamois goats and mouflon sheep, both endangered species.

Croatia has a long history of wine making, stretching back some 2,500 years, with many indigenous grape varieties still in use. (Croatia is also home to the oak forests that produce most of the oak casks favoured by wine producers across Europe).

Sprinkled throughout the islands are a number of excellent family-run vineyards open to the public during the summer. Tastings of the region’s truly excellent wines usually takes place in a stone cellar, where the wines are stored, often accompanied by platters of savoury nibbles.

If you’re lucky (and you often will be), the winemaker will be present to explain something about the winemaking process and the history of the vineyard.

This picturesque collection of 17 cascading waterfalls is one of the highlights of the Krka National Park. Wander the 2km walking track, or put on your bathers and swim in the river waters. Go early if you can – it gets crowded in summer.

The picturesque Cetina River, which lies south east of Split, runs through a spectacular high-sided rocky canyon – the Cetina Gorge – descending over a series of waterfalls and light-moderate rapids to meet the sea at Omis.

Half-day white-water rafting excursions tackle a 10km stretch of the river; during summer it’s a fairly gentle descent (grade I-II rapids), with time to take stock of the beautiful scenery. Spring and autumn see slightly more exhilarating rapids, but even then, it’s never more than an occasional grade III. You’re really coming for the setting and to escape into the great outdoors – hence why it’s such a popular day trip from Split.

If you don’t fancy rafting, there are kayaking and full-day canyoning options too. It’s also possible to try free climbing on the steep-sided rocky cliffs in the Cetina valley.

A handsome covered peskarija, popular with the locals, where marble stalls display mounds of freshly caught seafood. Sample the fare at one of the many surrounding cafes and restaurants. Open daily.

A photogenic 500m-long cape of fine golden shingle, that changes shape with the tide. Lined with sunbeds and good for watersports, it’s a great family beach.

Staged each summer between mid-July and mid-August, this festival sees Croatian and foreign artists performing opera, drama, ballet and music concerts.

What makes this festival so memorable and atmospheric, however, is the often stunning open-air venues, including the 19th-century Prokurative Square in the old town and the Mestrovic Gallery overlooking the sea.

Just offshore from the town of Hvar, this archipelago of 21 islets is a paradise of pinewoods, secluded coves and fine pebble beaches.

Closest to Hvar lies Jerolim, which is predominantly nudist; next up is Marinkovac, with the chic Carpe Diem Beach Club and another lovely sheltered cove, Zdrilca. Sveti Klement is the largest island and is home to Palmizana Bay, a long, narrow pebble beach overlooked by five restaurants and a centuries-old botanical.

Alight the ferry at Palmižana Bay and walk the length of the islet to Vlaka, following the marked hiking path through unspoilt Mediterranean vegetation and swimming in lovely coves along the way.

Boating and kayaking are great ways to explore these small islands – both can easily be rented in Hvar. There are also 15 excellent reef and wreck dives for all levels; the Viking Diving Centre in Hvar can make arrangements.

A 10-minute walk west of the historic centre brings you to Marjan, a gorgeous 3.5km-long peninsula criss-crossed by footpaths and planted with Aleppo pines, cypresses and fragrant Mediterranean shrubs.

For fantastic views over the sea and islands, follow the path along the south side, which leads past the 15th-century Church of St. Jerome all the way to Bene, a recreation area with a beach and pleasant café on Marjan’s western tip.

The highest peak on the Dalmatian islands, Vidova Gora (778m) affords fantastic views over the archipelago. It’s a 2-hour hike up following a well-marked, sometimes steep, footpath, or you can cycle it – there’s a 22km cycle path.

At the top, you’ll find a rustic eaterie, Konoba Vladimir Nazor, serving the local speciality, spit-roast lamb.

Sit on the terrace and soak up the scenery as you look down over the vineyards and out across the neighbouring islands of Hvar, Vis and Korcula.

As a secondary hike, visit the Blaca Monastery, clinging onto the flanks of Vidova Gora. Remote and remarkable, it was built during the 16th century and is only accessible on foot. The monastery can be reached by boat from Bol, followed by a steep 45-minute hike.

Gallery of Croatia’s best-known 20th-century sculptor Ivan Mestrovic – whose work has been compared to that of Rodin and Michelangelo – exhibits 200 of his works. It’s set in a splendid neo-classical villa, his former summer home, with a lovely café overlooking the sea.

A Blue-Flag, sandy beach in a sheltered bay just a ten-minute walk from Diocletian’s Palace. Locals come here to drink morning coffee at the seafront cafés and play picigin, a bizarre ball game unique to Split.

A beautiful pebble beach with a super-trendy beach club, boasting a lounge bar, DJ and restaurant in a magical setting among the pines. The club opens daily from June to September.

Taste some of Hvar’s best wines in a cellar modelled on the ancient Roman dining rooms used by the Emperor Diocletian. Hvar’s top winemaker.

The home of Croatia’s oldest wine co-operative, the Stina Winery has been in operation since the 1900’s and produces some of the region’s best Posip (white) and Plavac Mail (red). Daily tours and tastings at 5pm and 6pm, pre-booking not necessary.

Perched on a remote mountain cleft on Brac island, the Hermitage dates back to the 15th century, when Ottoman Turks took shelter in a cave. They stayed, built outwards and by the 18th century it was a Hermitage serving three local villages.

This charming 2-hour tour in the village Dol on Brac, takes you to visit a 400-year-old castle and discover the secrets of a local family’s wine-making. There’s a small workshop, where you can taste rakija, kvasina and prosek and even try your hand at wine-making.