Seville

Peak season is spring, with Semana Santa and other fiestas: Christmas is another busy time. Seville often roasts in July and August; if you go then, take a long afternoon siesta.

Autumn is lovely and warm; January and February are quiet, and can be rainy, but offer a good chance to feel like a local.

A bus from Seville airport makes the half hour journey to the bus station in Plaza de Armas. If you fly into Madrid, the frequent high speed AVE trains will get you to Seville in 2.5 hours.

From Malaga airport, ALSA buses run at least once a day direct to Seville, but it’s best to book online to be assured of a seat.

Seville has a well-integrated metro, bus and tram network, although most of its attractions are in fairly easy walking distance.

The hop-on-hop-off bus will take you to the main sights (the 24- or 48-hour passes include free walking tours). Driving in the historic centre is a headache, park and walk, take a taxi or hire a bike or e bike.

The compact central neighbourhoods are best for walking to the sights, restaurants and bars. Santa Cruz by the Cathedral is touristy but also has an exceptional selection of good hotels; the nearby El Arenal is more peaceful.

Hotels in the Centro, between Plaza Nueva and Plaza de la Encarnacion, are good for shops and restaurants, and again in walking distance of the attractions, while the increasingly hip Triana, across the Guadalquivir is a less touristy quarter, full of character and nightlife, although it’s a bus ride or a 20-minute walk to the main sights.

Barrio Santa Cruz and surrounding areas are packed with restaurants and bars, especially along Calle Alvarez Quintero and Calle Mateo Gagos.

For traditional bars and restaurants look around Plaza Cristo de Burgos and nearby Plaza de la Encarnacion. For late night drinking holes and tapas, join the locals in the Alameda de Hercules north of the Centro.

Triana is another good spot after dark, especially along riverfront Calle Betis.

The pedestrian district around Calle Las Sierpes, the narrow winding street north of La Giralda up to Plaza Nueva, is full of quirky, traditional old shops cheek-to-jowl with designer boutiques.

Traditional Seville shops (flamenco dresses, etc) can be found around Plaza de la Alfalfa, just east of the Centro. Head across the Guadalquivir to Triana for ceramics and azulejo tiles and food in the  Mercado de Triana, Seville’s liveliest covered market.

What to buy

Ceramics, tiles, flamenco dresses, leather and Spanish guitars are classic buys, but don’t neglect Seville’s art galleries and antique shops.