Bucket list destination:
Burgos
Burgos, Castile and Leon, Spain
For five centuries the capital of the unified kingdom of Castilla y Leon, Burgos is an elegant little city and an essential stop on Camino Frances to Compostela, with its great World Heritage Cathedral, and remarkable medieval churches and monasteries.
Set on the banks of frog-filled Arlanzon river, it is famous as the most Castilian city in Castile, the birthplace and final resting place of Spain’s greatest commander of the Reconquista, El Cid.
There are excellent museums, including a surprising one on human evolution, pretty riverside strolls, and superb traditional restaurants and steakhouses.
Travel advice
When to go
Located on the Castilian plateau and often battered by winds, Burgos is the coldest city in Spain and generally has snow for at least 30 days. It’s very much low season, although it’s a good time to have an authentic experience with the locals if you bundle up.
April through October sees a steady stream of pilgrims passing through. June and September are fine and not too hot; July and August are the driest months, when Burgos is busiest, but highs rarely go above 30C.
Getting there and away
Burgos has a small airport 7km east of town, with links to Barcelona which can be convenient when coming from abroad. Its train station, Burgos Rosa de Lima, is 5km northeast of the centre and linked by high-speed train to Barcelona, Bilbao, Madrid or Vigo. Taxis provide links from both the airport and train station.
Getting around
Taxis are reasonable and there are ranks all around the city centre.
Motorists will find street parking hard to find, but there are plenty of pay lots and garages around the centre. Most of the sights are within easy walking distance in the centre. The exceptions are the great monasteries of Miraflores and Las Huelgas on the edges, which you can easily reach by bus or by bike.
Where to stay
There’s a good choice of hotels just around the pedestrianised centre, some of which especially cater to pilgrims and are quite reasonable. Some of the more luxurious choices are along the river banks. All are in easy walking distance of the sights, restaurants and bars.
There are also several hotels in the newly built residential zones around Burgos, but they wouldn’t be your first choice for sightseeing or character.