13 Best things to see & do in Arles

Set on a low hill, this is the biggest and one of the best-preserved Roman amphitheatres in France, where 20,000 would come to watch gladiators fight to the death.

Built in the late 1st century AD, it was inspired by Rome’s Coliseum, which had been built a decade earlier – and was later converted into a fortress in the Middle Ages (an era from which three towers still survive). Originally the amphitheatre had a third level of arcades, but even now there are lovely views over the rosy tile rooms of Arles from the top level.

A designated UNESCO World Heritage Site, it’s now used as an arena again, it’s used for bullfights during Arles’ Easter and September festivals, as well as the bloodless Courses Camarguaises bullfights, and occasional gladiatorial re-enactments.

Be sure to visit the ancient theatre, too, which is included in the ticket – built in the century before the amphitheatre, it’s not as well-preserved, but still used for performances.

Courses Camarguaises are bloodless bullfights, unique to Provence, where razeteurs (young men) dressed in white compete to seize a cockade, tied between the horns of a bull. Their only defense is to vault over the boards whenever the bull charges.

Unlike in bullfighting, the bulls are the stars of the show, not the ‘bullfighters’ i.e. razeteurs, even though some razeteurs achieve some local fame and notoriety. Each bull has his own name and identity – some become local ‘heroes’, with long ‘careers’ and even secure an honoury statue. The Camargue bull breed has long been recognised and valued for their speed, spirit, intelligence and fighting prowess (much more than their work ethic), and are specially bred for the occasion.

There are numerous such ‘Courses’ held through the spring and summer months, many accompanying various Provence festivals, but the ‘big one’, the main event, is the Cocarde d’Or that takes place on the first Monday in July. The tournament is staged in the evocative setting of Les Arènes, Arles’ ancient Roman amphitheatre, and includes a colourful parade of traditional costumes. Not only is the best razeteur crowned, but the bravest bull is chosen as well – a great honour for its manade (ranch).

Because this is a bloodless sport, it’s a great way of getting a taste of the tradition of bullfighting, without the gore. It’s also an opportunity to experience a cultural phenomenon in a magnificent Roman setting.

When people think of ‘Provence’, they’ll think of medieval villages, rich culture, exceptional food and… lavender. Vast fields of it, smothering the rolling landscapes like a purple carpet.

Locals in Provence have been cultivating lavender for centuries, using it for a variety of purposes. It’s distilled into an essential oil, which is then used as an ingredient in perfumes, cosmetics, and aromatherapy products. It’s also used in traditional Provencal sachets to scent linens and wardrobes, and in local dishes to add a unique flavour. (There’s even lavender ice cream). Lavender is also known for its medicinal properties, such as soothing burns, relieving headaches, and aiding sleep.

Lavender thrives in Provence due to its ideal climate, characterised by abundant sunshine, well-drained soils, and altitudes between 500 and 1,500 meters. No wonder, then, that lavender is deeply rooted in the region’s culture and economy.

The most famous locations for lavender gazing are the Valensole Plateau, Sault, and the Luberon region. The fields bloom from late June to early August, so you need to go then for the full immersive experience.

To learn about cultivation and distillation, head to the Lavandes Angelvin Estate in Valensole, where they’ll tell you all about it in the onsite shop, and stock a range of lavender-themed products. Another good adoption is the Blue Provence Distillery which offers free tours of their facility. Also, be sure to stop by the elegantly beautiful Abbaye Notre-Dame de Senanque, the subject of the classic Provence ‘lavender’ photo.

As prime spots where Van Gogh lived and painted, the towns of Arles and Saint-Remy both regret not hanging on to any of Van Gogh’s original works while he was alive. To make up for it, each has set up a self-guided Van Gogh Walk, pinpointing the scenic spots where the master planted his easel.

When doing the walk in Arles, spare some time to see the Espace Van Gogh in the former hospital on Place du Dr Félix Rey, where he had his ear stitched up and was later locked up. Inside you’ll find exhibits chronicling his stay. The hospital’s courtyard has been remodelled to resemble as closely as possible his famous painting ‘Le Jardin de l’Hôtel de Dieu’. You’ll also pass by the Reattu Fine Arts Museum, which houses many of Van Gogh letters, and the famous Café Terrace on the Place du Forum.

Provence is celebrated for its exceptional food and drink, deeply rooted in the region’s rich culinary traditions and Mediterranean climate. The cuisine is characterised by its vibrant flavours, aromatic herbs, and the use of fresh, local produce.

The Provencal diet heavily features ingredients like tomatoes, garlic, onions, bell peppers, zucchini, and eggplant, all of which thrive in the sun-drenched climate of southeastern France. Olive oil, often referred to as ‘liquid gold’, is a staple in Provencal cooking, infusing dishes with its rich, fruity flavour. Herbs such as thyme, rosemary, basil, and oregano are integral to the cuisine, often combined to create the iconic Herbes de Provence mix. These aromatic herbs enhance the natural flavours of the ingredients, highlighting the region’s emphasis on simplicity and freshness.

Cooking styles in Provence range from slow-simmering stews that meld flavours over time to quick, vibrant sautés that preserve the crispness and colour of vegetables. Grilling is also popular, particularly for fish and meats, taking advantage of the region’s abundant coastline and access to fresh seafood.

The region’s wine, particularly rosé, complements the cuisine perfectly. Local wineries produce wines that pair beautifully with Provencal dishes, enhancing the dining experience.

Quintessential to the mystique of the Provence region, La Camargue – the enormous Rhone delta just south of Arles – is Western Europe’s largest river delta and home to an important range of flora and wildlife, including nearly 400 species of bird. Almost 140,000 hectares are declared a national park. The Pont de Gau Ornithological Park is good for spotting some of the Camargue’s 400 species of birds, while the Marais Vigueirat Nature Reserve has nature trails and offers guided wildlife excursions.

Local tour operators in Arles and Les Saintes-Maries offer 4WD drive wildlife safaris and zodiac river safaris into remote areas; in winter, sand yachting on the long empty beaches is also possible. There are a number of cycle paths into the Camargue from the little coastal town of Les Saintes-Maries, where you can also find bikes to rent.

Other visitors come for the wild beaches by the picturesque seaside town of Les Saintes Maries-de-la-Mer, dominated by its famous fortified Romanesque church.

Set in the 15th-century Grand Priory of the Knights of Malta, this museum features tapestries on the Seven Wonders of the World (1614), Van Gogh’s famous letter to Gaugin, 57 drawings donated by Picasso, and much more.

Arles’ fine arts museum, housed in the former Grand Priory of the Knights of Malta, is dedicated to showcasing fine arts, with a particular emphasis on the works of Jacques Réattu, an 18th-century painter who once owned the building.

It houses an extensive collection of Réattu’s paintings, 57 drawings donated by Picasso, who had a personal connection to Arles, and a notable collection of modern art. Look out for Réattu’s must-see masterpiece Portrait of a Young Man, tapestries on the Seven Wonders of the World (1614) and Van Gogh’s famous letter to Gaugin.

Located alongside Arles’ Roman circus, where chariots once stormed around the track, this museum houses the city’s ever-expanding collection of finds from the region – dating from prehistoric times until the 6th century AD.

Housed in a striking triangular building designed by Henri Ciriani, the exhibits include Roman sculpture, ceramics, mosaics, scale models of Roman Arles, everyday items, and elaborate sarcophagi from the Alyscamps cemetery.

It also contains what some claim is the oldest known bust of Julius Caesar (founder of Roman Arles), which was discovered in the Rhone in 2007. Hortus, next to the museum in the ruins of the ancient circus, is the recreation of a Roman garden and frequently offers activities and ancient Roman games for children.

Arles is world-famous thanks to Van Gogh, but to the city’s eternal regret no one bought any of his paintings. This foundation, in the newly renovated Hotel Leautaud de Donines, is dedicated to art exhibitions inspired by the artist.

UNESCO-listed Saint-Trophime’s extraordinary carved portal depicting the Apocalypse is one of the finest Romanesque works in the south of France. In comparison, the interior of the cathedral is austere, but don’t miss the stunning Romanesque-Gothic cloister, with its sculpted capitals.

This evocative, romantic Roman burial ground – once the most famous cemetery in medieval Europe – is today a significant historical and archaeological site. It’s also been immortalised in paintings by Vincent van Gogh and Paul Gauguin.

It stretches along a tree-lined avenue filled with sarcophagi and ancient tombs. It’s the burial site of the legendary St Trophime and the first bishops of Arles, and remains an important stop on the pilgrimage to Compostela. The site’s name translates to ‘Elysian Fields’, reflecting its importance as a resting place for the elite.

As you wander, you can explore the well-preserved sarcophagi, some adorned with intricate carvings and inscriptions. Also stop by the medieval Saint-Honorat Church and the remnants of the Romanesque Church of Saint-Césaire for a glimpse into the evolving architectural styles and religious practices over the centuries.

Founded in 1970, this major International Festival of Photography takes place in Arles from July to September in the Espace Van Gogh – the 16th-century Hotel Dieu – the city hospital that treated Vincent after he cut off his ear.

Frank Gehry’s striking crumpled silver tower houses the enormous project of the art-and Arles-loving billionaire heiress Maja Hoffmann, to create a new art gallery and new space for artists. Worth going to admire the architecture, if nothing else.