Granada

Peak season is spring, with Semana Santa and other fiestas: Christmas is another busy time. The city can roast in July and August; if you go then, take a long afternoon siesta.

Autumn is lovely and warm; January and February are quiet, and can be rainy, but offer a good chance to feel like a local.

Granada’s small airport is 12km west of the city. Alsa buses meet each flight, and have numerous stops in the city. There are a dozen daily direct buses from Malaga airport to Granada (two hours) that stop at the bus station out of town, where you can pick up a taxi.

Traffic is limited in the centre around the cathedral, where all points of interest are easily accessible by foot. Buses will take you up  the hilly bits (bus C30 goes to the Alhambra, bus C31 to the Albayzin, while C32 links both) and taxis are plentiful.

Numerous places rent out bikes and e-bikes for getting around on your own steam, but take care in the busy streets of the modern city.

It’s atmospheric and peaceful at night by the Alhambra, even if you’ll have to take the bus or taxis to get around, or face a long walk uphill. The Albayzin quarter looking across at the Alhambra is rife with stylish boutique hotels with beautiful views, near some of the liveliest bars and restaurants.

Staying around the Darro river, between the two hills is also good and convenient for the nightlife; the historic centre around the Royal Chapel is another good bet.

The big hotels in the modern city that host coach parties are less interesting.

Plaza Bibrambla by the Cathedral, Plaza Nueva and Calle Elvira are the social centres of Granada, where everyone stops for a drink and a nibble (it’s one of the towns where they often give out free tapas).

University students hang out in the bars on Calle Pedro Antonio, and atmospheric tapas bars wait in the plazas of Albayzin and along the Carrera del Darro. Look for Moroccan-style tea rooms along Calle Calderia Nueva.

For souvenirs, spices and crafts, visit the remnants of the once great silk bazaar along Calle Alcaiceria (but beware pickpockets!). All the big Spanish fashion brands can be found along Calle Reyes Catolicos and Calle Recogidas. If you’re serious about tiles, visit the Fajalauza factory up in Albaycin.

The Sunday morning Mercadillo de Antiguedades de Almunecar in Paseo Blas Infante is the place to look for antiques.

What to buy

Look for traditional crafts: taracea (wooden inlays), ajalauza (hand painted blue and green ceramics), jarapas (hand-woven rugs from the Alpujarras) and   farolas (stained-glass lamps), silks and ethnic fabrics.