50 Best things to see & do in The French Riviera

First run by the local automobile club in 1929, the Monaco Grand Prix is like no other race on the Formula 1 circuit: a heady cocktail of money, bling and VIPs, combined with the adrenaline-packed insanity of cars racing past mega yachts, around tight bends, through a tunnel and the steep streets of a densely packed city.

Because it is so dangerous, it’s shorter and slower than other F1 races, and often yields unexpected results. Some call it a drivers’ race (many drivers live in tax-haven Monaco) as it’s actually the least viewer-friendly of all F1 races – although for many diehard fans, that’s the attraction. Ideally, you’ll want access to a television to see what’s happening on the rest of the track.

Monaco, a playground of the rich and famous, is world-renowned for its casinos; they’re integral to life and culture here. Although we wouldn’t ever recommend gambling per se, a visit to Monaco would feel incomplete without at least stopping by to experience and people watch at the Casino de Monte Carlo.

Opened in 1863, the world’s most famous and prestigious casino oozes glamour, history, and surprisingly for a casino, class. The setting is ornate and grand, the (uber-wealthy) clientele wear tuxedos and cocktail dresses, gentle applause replaces whooping and hollering. James Bond visited twice – once in Never Say Never Again and again in GoldenEye.

Between 10am and 12.15pm you can buy a ticket to visit the legendary gaming rooms with an audio guide. After 2pm, anyone in proper attire with photo ID aged 18 and over can enter the three main gaming rooms for a fee;  or play the slot machines for free in the Salle Renaissance. VIP big spenders and their guests are welcome to lose their shirts in the exclusive Salles Prives.

The biggest winter event on the Riviera calendar, Nice’s carnival is considered by the cognoscenti as second only to Rio’s.

Every year, enormous, animated satirical floats cover a different theme, cruising through the city in daytime (Corso Carnavalesque) and night parades (Corso Illumine) – along with a ‘Battle of Flowers’ parade, where floral floats skim along the iconic Promenade des Anglais waterfront and blooms are hurled all over.

Too tame? Then get egged and floured at the anarchic Carnaval Populaire in Place Garibaldi. On the final night – always a Wednesday – the Carnival ends with a big firework display and a bonfire of floats on the beach, both of which are free to watch.

Nice can rightly claim France’s best hoard of modern art after Paris’s – and much of it was created here, in the early 20th century, when the Riviera’s light, colour and warmth attracted artists such as Renoir, Matisse and Chagall.

Wealthy collectors later founded museums, often in charming and historic buildings, and many artists donated works to their adopted towns. Just outside of Nice’s borders you’ll find museums dedicated to other world-renowned artists such as Picasso, Bonnard and Cocteau.

Being far less busy than Paris’s art museums, they’re a pleasure to wander – often set in pretty sculpture gardens, with lovely cafes or wine bars attached so you can sit and ruminate on your art fix.

Feel the wind blow through your hair along the spectacular Grande Corniche, the clifftop Cote d’Azur road where Hitchcock filmed Grace Kelly driving her roadster in To Catch a Thief.

Built 500m above sea level by Napoleon and following the old Roman road Via Julia Augusta, it has incredible views of this sought-after stretch of French coast, with mountains on one side and sea shimmering on the other.

You can drive the length of it in under an hour, but half the fun is stopping at the coast’s highlights along the way: picturesque towns such as La Turbie and Eze. From La Turbie, take the road to Monaco, but turn off at Les Hautes de Monte Carlo for the incredible views from the promontory by the France Telecom dome.

Part of the Grande Corniche is a park, with a network of footpaths: get there on the Route de la Revere, west of the Col de Eze.

Grasse, in the hills north of Cannes, is the capital of French perfume – with some 30 parfumeries distilling the globally-sourced essences that go into those pricey little bottles.

Fragonard, named after Grasse’s famous 18th-century painter, is one of the oldest and most traditional fragrance houses, and you can take a free tour of its history factory to see how their scents are made. There’s also a museum dedicated to the 3,000-year-old history of perfumes, and a ‘flower factory’ on the edge of town, surrounded by pretty gardens.

If you want to understand the process first-hand, sign up for a perfume-creating workshop, where you get to create your own 100ml bottle under the watchful gaze of a professional.

Although Fragonard is the most charming, Grasse’s other parfumeries, such as Galimard and Molinard are also worth a stop. Molinard’s perfume-making workshops help you to create your own scent, guided by a professional ‘nose’. Options range from 30 mins to 2 hours. There’s also a fun 20-minute workshop for kids aged 4-8.

The Cote d’Azur is famous for its rugged Mediterranean beauty, though beaches are pebblier and more shingly than pristine sand. There are some exceptions, though (see Pampelonne and Juan Les Pins) and even the craggiest bays have sparkling shallows in that turquoise Mediterranean hue.

The most scenic stretches are dominated by lavish, luxury beach clubs, charging visitors anywhere from £15 and £40 to rent a sun lounger, towel and parasol – but the people-watching and sense of glamour are priceless.

The best beach clubs, around Saint-Tropez, Antibes, Cannes and Cap Ferrat, offer slick food and drink service, brought directly to your lounger – and often turn into late-night party venues. Hedonistic Saint-Tropez, with its golden beaches, is the most famous place to soak up this scene.

World-renowned French artists Henri Matisse, like Picasso, is credited with revolutionising the visual arts in the 20th century. Many of his best works were painted at the turn of the 20th century, using his unique blend of intense colour, flattened form and decorative pattern.

Set in a grand 17th-century Genoese mansion, Nice’s Matisse Museum opened in 1963, containing works that Matisse left to his adopted city, where he lived from 1917 to 1954.

It isn’t focused heavily on his most famous works – instead, you’ll see how the artist’s style evolved over the years: touching on his bold, colourful paintings, gouache cut-outs, drawings, prints, and 57 sculptures (nearly all of his output). Steps lead down to the modern wing, built atop the city’s Roman ruins.

Get above it all on the picturesque, human-scale, and wonderfully scenic Train des Pignes.

The historic steam engine takes 90 minutes to chug from Puget-Theniers to Annot, and on special occasions goes as far Le Fugeret.

Along the way, you pass through verdant French countryside, peppered with mountains and gorges, olive-oil mills and walled villages.

Choose to disembark at medieval Entrevaux with its citadel, or Annot and Le Fugeret for lovely walks.

It’s a spectacular route and a great day out in the South of France: kids love it too.

The region’s cuisine is a mix of Provencal and Italian food, using plenty of olive oil, sun-ripened fresh fruit and vegetables, seafood and lamb from the mountains.

Pasta often features – flavoured with pistou (similar to pesto) – and salad is ever-popular; truffles, caviar, lobster, and foie gras commonly feature in fine dining restaurants.

Dating back to 1946, the prestigious, star-studded Cannes Film Festival not only awards the Palme d’Or – one of the most sought-after prizes in cinema – it also serves as the world’s biggest film market, attracting 10,000 agents, distributors, directors and producers, eager to show their wares.

For the general public, it’s a thrill just to be in Cannes during festival season – soaking up the excitement of glitzy red carpets and screenings all over town, movie-star spotting, and even the chance to see some films in competition.

Founded in 1906 by Prince Albert I, Monaco’s Musee Oceanographique is one of the oldest scientific marine institutes anywhere.

Located in a remarkable wedding-cake building, cascading over the cliffs towards the sea, it contains fascinating artefacts and stuffed creatures collected by Albert himself during his 24 ocean expeditions.

The basement’s aquarium tanks are one highlight, with examples of over 400 species from the Mediterranean and tropical ecosystems, including a shark tank and live coral reef – all labelled in English.

After taking in the exhibits, take the lift up to the café floor, even if you’re not stopping, for the views over the tiny, high-rise principality and the sea.

Conceived as Nice’s answer to Paris’s Pompidou Centre, MAMAC’s twin towers – connected by a sculptural glass facade – contain a core collection of intriguing art from the 1950s to the present.

Stroll through some 1,400 bold, edgy works by the likes of Ben, Yves Klein, Christo, Niki de Saint-Phalle, Dine, Warhol, Oldenburg, Lichtenstein, Rauschenberg, Tiguely and Kelly, framed by luminous white-cube rooms – and don’t miss the striking public art on your way in. MAMAC also holds frequent, excellent temporary exhibitions.

This character-filled, medieval village is one of the oldest in the South of France, and arguably the loveliest of all the ‘perched’ villages. It’s a place to wander narrow, cobblestone streets, past ancient stone houses, admiring the stunning vistas of the Cote d’Azur.

There’s also a vibrant art scene here. Indeed, it’s long been a haven for famous actors, film stars, and artists – Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse and Marc Chagall all lived here.

The Maeght Foundation and several other excellent modern and contemporary art museums are also located nearby.

The famous Belle Epoque café, with its lovely outdoor terrace and prime location, is the place for a rendez-vous  – and people-watching – in Monaco. Go for lunch, dinner or a well-deserved cocktail. After some ‘Dutch courage’, head to the legendary Monte Carlo Casino to roll the dice as you rub shoulders with the rich and famous.

Housed in a low, modest-looking building among pretty Mediterranean gardens, this museum houses the painter Marc Chagall’s remarkable cycle of 17 glowing, colour-drenched paintings inspired by the Bible. This permanent collection is the biggest public collection of works by the artist anywhere.

One of the greatest artists of the 20th century, Chagall has an entirely unique style that borrowed from many schools of modern art, including Cubism, Fauvism, Symbolism, Surrealism, Orphism and Futurism.

The artist was heavily inspired by the Cote d’Azur, and lived in nearby Vence from the 1940s to the 1980s, becoming a key part of the region’s rich art scene.

Replete with Chagall’s trademark folk symbolism, the colour-saturated, dreamlike works in Nice’s pristine white museum have a special magic, especially the brilliant red Song of Songs.

Cannes’ seafront boulevard, one of the most famous boulevards in the world, is known for its glamorous ambience and beautiful scenery. Stretching along the beachfront, it’s lined with luxury hotels, high-end boutiques, and upscale restaurants, making it a must-visit for those wanting to immerse in the height of Riviera elegance and sophistication. It’s also home to the Palais des Festivals, famous for hosting the annual Cannes Film Festival, attracting celebrities and filmmakers from around the globe.

Take a stroll along it, spend time on its pristine beaches, or stop at one of the many canopied cafes and restaurants for dining and people-watching, as you breath in the lovely sea breeze off the Mediterranean. Landmarks to look out for along the way include the historic InterContinental Carlton Cannes, renowned for its distinctive domes and star-studded guest list, and the art deco Palais Miramar.

John Cocteau (1889-1963) was a famous French poet, playwright, novelist, designer, filmmaker and visual artist. He’s arguably best known for his novel Les Enfants Terribles (1929). Seek out his whimsical, graphic work in this quirky museum, with a waterfront facade that resembles a row of teeth.

French artist Pierre Renoir (1841-1919) was a pioneer in the development of the Impressionist style. His paintings are known for vibrant light and saturated colour, predominantly of the female (and often nude) form. He spent his last years in this lovely villa in Cagnes, which now displays his paintings and sculptures.

This delightful pink pastiche of an Italianate villa was built in 1912 by the flamboyant art collector Baroness Beatrice Ephrussi de Rothschild, to house her fabulous collection of 18th-century art and furniture. Set on the highest point of high-net-worth playground Cap Ferrat, it’s a gilded, fondant fantasy for fans of kitsch design and architecture, and a fun stop on a tour of the Cote d’Azur.

The villa’s gardens, terraced out of the rock, are equally remarkable, divided into little worlds of their own: exotic, English, Florentine Spanish, Provencal, Japanese, and French, with a musical fountain that plays every 20 minutes.

Set in a sublime garden amid playful mosaics, fountains and sculptures by Calder, Giacometti, Pol Bury and Tal Coat, the Maeght Foundation is itself a masterpiece.

Designed in 1964 by Josep Lluis Sert, a student of Le Corbusier, this striking building’s luminous white rooms are filled with natural light – the ideal setting for bold, colour-packed art by the likes of Braque, Chagal, Leger, Bonnard and Miro.

Outside, there’s a sculpture garden, with rotating works by world-renowned sculptors such as Jean Arp, Eduardo Chillida, Erik Dietman, Barbara Hepworth and Joan Miro.

Kids will love the garden with its Miro maze and Pol Bury fountain.

Colourful interiors, nudes and landscapes by world-renowned French artist Pierre Bonnard (1867-1947), a leading figure in the transition from Impressionism to Modernism. He lived in Le Cannet between 1922 and 1947.

Ever since 1297, when it was captured by Francesco Grimaldi the Spiteful (who snuck in disguised as a monk, stabbed the guards, then let in his men), this palace set on a cliff has been the headquarters of Monaco’s royal family. Around the 17th century, opulent state apartments were added, which are now open for public visits for part of the year.

The main palace remains the private residence of the ruling Prince, and is closed to the public. Family photos add interest – look out for the portrait of Princess Grace (a.k.a movie star Grace Kelly), Prince Rainier and their children – and there are fabulous views over a marina scattered with mega-yachts.

This sumptuous, Baroque-style palace, built in the 17th century by the Counts Lascaris-Vintimille, is dedicated to preserving the art and music of the 17th and 18th centuries. It also offers a rare chance to see how the one percent lived back when Nice was Italian.

Alongside its grand staircase and quadratura (trompe l’oeil) paintings, its interiors are just as lush as you’d expect, bedecked in decorative and fine arts from the 17th and 18th centuries, including frescoed walls, tapestries, sculptures, and gilded picture frames.

The real surprise, though, is the small but fascinating music museum, with a collection of 500 musical instruments. There’s also a 17th-century pharmacy on the ground floor.

Nice’s food and flower market, held along the pedestrianised Cours Saleya esplanade, is packed with all the vibrant, sensuous colours, flavours and scents of the south: lavender, marzipan, sugared almonds, spices, herbal teas, takeaway socca and pissaladiere snacks. Held Tuesday to Sunday, around 6.30am to 1.30pm.

This magnificent former private mansion – built by a Russian princess – contains a fine collection of paintings and sculptures from the 16th to 20th century, by artists who lived in the Cote D’Azur.

If you want to escape the crowds, cross the water to this peaceful island, the second largest of the Lerins. There’s a 3rd-century abbey, where St Patrick once studied; there are lovely walks, swims and the monks’ wine to purchase. See the ferry website for departures and tickets.

In a medieval castle with superb views over La Croisette, rare items from the Himalayas, Arctic, Pre-Colombian America and the Pacific islands, along with the ancient Mediterranean artefacts, musical instruments from around the world and historic paintings of the Riviera.

If it all gets too much, head to the stunning 75-year-old Jardin Exotique, with its surreal collection of cacti, a stalactite Observatory Cave inhabited 250,000 years ago, and an anthropology museum. Open Tuesday to Saturday. Guided tours on Saturdya by appointment.

In 1946, Picasso was invited to use the 14th-century Grimaldi Castle in Antibes – perched high on the one-time acropolis of the ancient Greek city of Antipolis – as a studio.

It was a happy period for the artist and in spite of a shortage of art supplies, he made do with what he could find, painting joyful Cubist scenes of fauns, nymphs and centaurs inspired by Greek mythology.

Now a museum, the castle’s collection shows the fruits of this era, its artworks infused with optimism and a Mediterranean colour spectrum.

When the Cote d’Azur seems too built-up and busy, the best cure is to strike out into nature – the craggy coastline and verdant interior that attracted visitors here in the first place.

There are many scenic walks along popular areas of the coast – or serious hikers will find more challenging paths between the villages-perches high above the coast, or in the spectacular Alpes Maritimes region north of Nice, home of the Mercantour National Park.

The big covered market in the heart of Cannes dates from the 1930s, and overflows with the fresh produce and flowers of Provence. It’s open until 1pm and closed Monday – although sometimes there’s a flea market in there instead.

Villa Massena, a lavish Second Empire palace (built circa 1900), was donated to Nice by the aristocratic Massena family, to house the city’s Museum of Art and History. A beautiful and intriguing building in itself, the villa’s 20 rooms now retrace the history of Nice through more than 1,500 exhibits – ranging from furniture to decorations and artworks.

Historic figures Napoleon and Garibaldi (the latter born in Nice) get plenty of attention – Napoleon’s letters to his wife Josephine, along with some of her clothes, are particularly interesting – and there are fascinating photos and relics from the resort’s early days.

This pretty 16th-century chapel turned gallery has one of France’s top collections of post-Impressionist art. See paintings by Matisse, Derain, Braque, Vlaminck, Bonnard, Utrillo, Roualt and Vuilllard. Open daily, except Tuesday.

In contrast to the ritzy, designer beach clubs of nearby Saint-Tropez, this rugged but well-maintained 18km coastal walking path offers an escape into pure nature.

Signposted in yellow, it follows the wildest and most picturesque shores of the peninsula, protected by local authority the Conservatoire du Littoral.

Starting at the sandy, pine-fringed Gigaro Beach, the trail skirts the wild, protruding Cap Taillat – lapped by bright turquoise waters – and the wild cliffs of Cap Lardier, before ending at the Baie de Pampelonne, where there are sands to lounge on or frequent buses back to Saint-Tropez.

Starting at the quarry used to build Monaco’s port, this beautiful 4.8km circular path follows the wild, rocky southern tip of Cap Ferrat, and lasts around two hours. You’ll pass several highlights of the peninsula, including the fabulous Grand Hotel du Cap, the picturesque Cap Ferrat lighthouse, and the wave-splashed Pointe Malalongue.

By the sandy, foliage-framed Plage de Passable beach, cross east over the peninsula onto Avenue Denis Semeria (past the Villa des Cèdres and its botanical gardens, once home to notorious Leopold II of Belgium), and on to St-Jean.

Rolling Stones fans can gaze at Villa Nellcote, where the album Exile on Main Street was recorded: from the Plage de Passable, turn left on Avenue Denis Semeria and walk 1km to Avenue Louise Bordes. For an easier stroll in the area, there’s a pretty 3km walk from Paloma Beach to the 11th-century chapel of Saint Hospice, following the eastern protrusion of the coast just south of St-Jean.

Escape civilization along this surprisingly wild, circular 5km coastal path that winds around Cap d’Antibes. Start at Garoupe Beach and pass rocky cliffs, high over the crashing waves.

This 3-hour 6.6km coastal walk, to Cap Martin’s tip and back, offers spectacular views and famous 20th-century architectural landmarks.

The walks starts at the Roquebrune train station, crosses the pebbly beach ‘Plage de Buse’, then climbs up through gardens to the famous ‘Cap Moderne’, a clutch of 20th-century UNESCO World Heritage architectural icons in gorgeous setting. The highlight is the Eileen Gray E-1027 House, the Modernist masterpiece (1929) of the famous Irish designer and her partner, Jean Badovici.

The Promenade then takes in sumptuous Mediterranean foliage along the white rocky coastline, with glimpses of fabulous villas and views of Monaco.

The philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche famously walked up this beautiful, zigzagging path – and was inspired to finish Thus Spake Zarathustra in the process – but most non-philosophers prefer the views (and effort levels) when walking down.

This route stretches from the dramatic village perche of Eze to the train station in seaside Eze-Bord-du-Mer, covering 1.6km and a 400m decline, and takes the average walker just under an hour to descend. It’s more like an hour and a half to hike the trail upwards – either way, the path is well signposted. For the best views, start or finish at Eze’s succulent-filled Jardin Exotique at the top of the medieval village.

Nicknamed ‘the Bunker’, this giant building on the Croisette hosts the Cannes Film Festival, with its famous red carpet and 24 steps where the paparazzi line up to take snaps of the movie stars: 150 have left their handprints, Hollywood style, in front.

Built in 1908 in an ancient-Greek-style, this villa in a ravishing seaside garden setting features replica 2nd-century AD interiors typical of the island of Delos. The project of two scholars obsessed with the period.

High above Monaco, Emperor Augustus erected a 147ft monument in the 1st century BC to celebrate his victories over the Ligurian tribes. In spite of damage over the centuries, it is still a remarkable sight, with breathtaking views.

Discover Cannes the easy way on the Movie Train, starting from the Palais des Festivals: it takes in the Forville Market, Le Susquet, La Croisette, the casinos, and Rue d’Antibes.

Artist Henri Matisse considered this little chapel in Vence to be his greatest masterpiece. Completed in 1951, it features striking stained glass windows, cerulean tiles and vibrant murals, and a serene interior reflecting Matisse’s unique artistic vision. Despite its modest size, the chapel is renowned for its profound beauty and spiritual ambience. He painted it as a gift to the nuns who nursed him back to health after a protracted illness.

The biggest theme park on the Cote d’Azur – a sea-inspired water park – has dolphin shows, aquariums and fairground rides. In summer there’s also Aquasplash, an enormous water park and a mini-golf course.

The Cote d’Azur’s most famous and atmospheric beach, with public sands and private clubs for every taste. The sea here is a lovely turquoise. Among the beach clubs, 55 is for serious star-spotting, Les Jumeaux is for families, Moorea and Aqua Club are laid-back, and Nikki Beach is for blingy party types.

A stunning white sand and pebble beach under pale golden cliffs just west of Monaco. Accessed by steep steps, this shallow cove is both glamorous and exclusive. Mala has two public areas and two chic beach clubs: Eden Plage and the Reserve de Mala – both romantic at sunset, serving cocktails by candlelight and playing music after dark.

Sheltered from the wind, child-friendly Garoupe is a good choice for beach lounging. There’s a free, public section (Plage Municipale) with sunbeds and parasols, as well as multiple private beach clubs. Plage Keller is the trendiest. Petit Plage and Plage Joseph are also good, and family-friendly.

Sheltered from the wind, this shingle beach in a beautiful, wooded cove is a laid-back favourite of both locals and celebrities. Views across to the Alps are sublime. It’s part public, but best to splurge on a lounger at the delightful Paloma Beach Club – a local institution with an excellent restaurant.

Tucked between chi-chi St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat and Nice, the charming Medieval village of Villefranche-sur-Mer is the relaxed, boho antidote to the moneybags Riviera. A kilometre of coarse, gently shelving golden sand and crystalline waters, it’s all free and open to the public.