Travel bucket list idea:
Walk The Chemin Nietzsche
Eze, Cote d'Azur, France
The philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche famously walked up this beautiful, zigzagging path – and was inspired to finish Thus Spake Zarathustra in the process – but most non-philosophers prefer the views (and effort levels) when walking down.
This route stretches from the dramatic village perche of Eze to the train station in seaside Eze-Bord-du-Mer, covering 1.6km and a 400m decline, and takes the average walker just under an hour to descend. It’s more like an hour and a half to hike the trail upwards – either way, the path is well signposted. For the best views, start or finish at Eze’s succulent-filled Jardin Exotique at the top of the medieval village.
Getting there & doing it
Bus No. 83 links the two villages roughly every hour (so you can walk one way and get the bus back) – while Bus No. 100 and the TER train station connect Eze Bord-de-Mer to Nice and Monaco. Check bus schedules – they can be infrequent on Sundays.
Wear good shoes (not flip-flops), and bring water, a sunhat and sunscreen in summer, and set off early as there’s little shade. Bring a swimsuit to cool off on the beach at the bottom of the trail. It’s generally baking hot in the afternoon in the summer.
When to do it
The best months for walking in this region are March to October. In July and August, set out early to avoid the heat.
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