12 Best things to see & do in Avignon

Founded in 1947 by theatre director Jean Vilar, this festival was France’s answer to the UK’s Edinburgh Festival. It’s since evolved into a mass celebration of drama, music and dance, concentrating on edgy and avant-garde performances and companies from around Europe.

Nowadays, nearly a thousand shows and exhibitions take place over three weeks in July, both in Avignon and across the river in Villeneuve-lès-Avignon. The Off Festival, a completely independent fringe event, runs alongside, attracting 1,000+ independent companies.

When the popes abandoned tumultuous Rome in 1309, they came to Avignon. Seven reigned here until 1377, in a colourful period of greed and depravity that the poet Petrarch labelled the ‘Babylonian captivity’. They left behind nothing less than the biggest Gothic palace of all time, built for luxury as well as defence.

Although much of its decoration has been lost over time, it has lost none of its power to amaze. It’s a big site not really suited to younger children, though ‘Les Luminessences’ – an outdoor 3D show, held every evening from mid-August to late September – is good for all the family.

When people think of ‘Provence’, they’ll think of medieval villages, rich culture, exceptional food and… lavender. Vast fields of it, smothering the rolling landscapes like a purple carpet.

Locals in Provence have been cultivating lavender for centuries, using it for a variety of purposes. It’s distilled into an essential oil, which is then used as an ingredient in perfumes, cosmetics, and aromatherapy products. It’s also used in traditional Provencal sachets to scent linens and wardrobes, and in local dishes to add a unique flavour. (There’s even lavender ice cream). Lavender is also known for its medicinal properties, such as soothing burns, relieving headaches, and aiding sleep.

Lavender thrives in Provence due to its ideal climate, characterised by abundant sunshine, well-drained soils, and altitudes between 500 and 1,500 meters. No wonder, then, that lavender is deeply rooted in the region’s culture and economy.

The most famous locations for lavender gazing are the Valensole Plateau, Sault, and the Luberon region. The fields bloom from late June to early August, so you need to go then for the full immersive experience.

To learn about cultivation and distillation, head to the Lavandes Angelvin Estate in Valensole, where they’ll tell you all about it in the onsite shop, and stock a range of lavender-themed products. Another good adoption is the Blue Provence Distillery which offers free tours of their facility. Also, be sure to stop by the elegantly beautiful Abbaye Notre-Dame de Senanque, the subject of the classic Provence ‘lavender’ photo.

Provence is celebrated for its exceptional food and drink, deeply rooted in the region’s rich culinary traditions and Mediterranean climate. The cuisine is characterised by its vibrant flavours, aromatic herbs, and the use of fresh, local produce.

The Provencal diet heavily features ingredients like tomatoes, garlic, onions, bell peppers, zucchini, and eggplant, all of which thrive in the sun-drenched climate of southeastern France. Olive oil, often referred to as ‘liquid gold’, is a staple in Provencal cooking, infusing dishes with its rich, fruity flavour. Herbs such as thyme, rosemary, basil, and oregano are integral to the cuisine, often combined to create the iconic Herbes de Provence mix. These aromatic herbs enhance the natural flavours of the ingredients, highlighting the region’s emphasis on simplicity and freshness.

Cooking styles in Provence range from slow-simmering stews that meld flavours over time to quick, vibrant sautés that preserve the crispness and colour of vegetables. Grilling is also popular, particularly for fish and meats, taking advantage of the region’s abundant coastline and access to fresh seafood.

The region’s wine, particularly rosé, complements the cuisine perfectly. Local wineries produce wines that pair beautifully with Provencal dishes, enhancing the dining experience.

The paintings by Chardin, Manet, Cezanne, Degas, Modigliani, Sisley, Van Gogh and Picasso that fill this delightful museum were collected by Paris fashion designer Jacques Doucet – the Yves Saint-Laurent of the early 20th century. They were later donated to the city of Avignon by his great-nephew and wife, who were both artists and collectors themselves.

This inspiring selection of art is housed in the Doucet family’s elegant Avignon townhouse, with one floor preserved exactly as it was during their lifetime. Be sure to track down Van Gogh’s Railway Carriages, the only Van Gogh painting that remains on permanent display in Provence.

The remarkably preserved Pont du Gard is a masterpiece of Roman engineering. Built in the 1st century BC as part of a 50km aqueduct, it once supplied 30,000m³ of water daily to Nimes and until recently was used as a car bridge.

There’s a small museum on site that documents the history of the aqueduct, and explains how it was built with a variety of models, virtual reconstructions, multimedia screens and sounds.

A genuine masterpiece of classical architecture, and looking almost good as new after recent restorations, the gleaming white Maison Carree (really a temple to the divine heirs of Augustus) is one of the best-preserved of all Roman buildings. Nearby in the Jardins de la Fontaine is another unique monument, the Tour Magne, a tower offering views over the city.

Two beautiful 18th-century mansions in Avignon host this contemporary collection. Established by Yvon Lambert, a renowned art collector, the collection features works by renowned artists such as Andy Warhol, Jean-Michel Basquiat, and Cy Twombly.

Museum housing masterpieces of French International Gothic art, including Enguerrand Quarton’s famous Coronation of the Virgin. It’s housed within a former cardinal’s palace, and named after the renowned cardinal who resided there in the 14th century. Exhibitions range from medieval sculptures and religious art to Renaissance paintings and decorative arts.

Nimes’ landmark amphitheatre makes an elegant focal point for the city centre. Like many others, it owes its survival to being converted to a fortress in the Middle Ages. ‘Les Arenes’, as the Nimois call it, is now restored, and used for bullfights, courses camarguaises (bloodless bullfights), historical re-enactments and concerts.

This evocative, romantic Roman burial ground – once the most famous cemetery in medieval Europe – is today a significant historical and archaeological site. It’s also been immortalised in paintings by Vincent van Gogh and Paul Gauguin.

It stretches along a tree-lined avenue filled with sarcophagi and ancient tombs. It’s the burial site of the legendary St Trophime and the first bishops of Arles, and remains an important stop on the pilgrimage to Compostela. The site’s name translates to ‘Elysian Fields’, reflecting its importance as a resting place for the elite.

As you wander, you can explore the well-preserved sarcophagi, some adorned with intricate carvings and inscriptions. Also stop by the medieval Saint-Honorat Church and the remnants of the Romanesque Church of Saint-Césaire for a glimpse into the evolving architectural styles and religious practices over the centuries.

‘Les Compagnons’, an association of Cotes du Rhone winemakers, hold this harvest festival on a Saturday late in August at the Rocher des Doms in Avignon; there’s a parade, games and plenty of food and wine.