7 Best things to see & do in Aix-en-Provence

Cezanne’s studio on Les Lauves hill was designed by the artist himself in 1902, although he only used it when it was too cold to paint outdoors (he died in 1906, after getting caught in the rain while painting his beloved Mont Sainte-Victoire). Over the decades it has been maintained as he left it – a must-see for any Cezanne fan, the one place in Aix where his presence is tangible.

If you continue another kilometre or so north from the studio, along Avenue Paul Cezanne, you’ll come to Les Lauves, the Terrain des Peintures viewpoint – where Cezanne often planted his easel to paint Mont Sainte-Victoire.

Provence is celebrated for its exceptional food and drink, deeply rooted in the region’s rich culinary traditions and Mediterranean climate. The cuisine is characterised by its vibrant flavours, aromatic herbs, and the use of fresh, local produce.

The Provencal diet heavily features ingredients like tomatoes, garlic, onions, bell peppers, zucchini, and eggplant, all of which thrive in the sun-drenched climate of southeastern France. Olive oil, often referred to as ‘liquid gold’, is a staple in Provencal cooking, infusing dishes with its rich, fruity flavour. Herbs such as thyme, rosemary, basil, and oregano are integral to the cuisine, often combined to create the iconic Herbes de Provence mix. These aromatic herbs enhance the natural flavours of the ingredients, highlighting the region’s emphasis on simplicity and freshness.

Cooking styles in Provence range from slow-simmering stews that meld flavours over time to quick, vibrant sautés that preserve the crispness and colour of vegetables. Grilling is also popular, particularly for fish and meats, taking advantage of the region’s abundant coastline and access to fresh seafood.

The region’s wine, particularly rosé, complements the cuisine perfectly. Local wineries produce wines that pair beautifully with Provencal dishes, enhancing the dining experience.

Founded in 1948, this international festival of lyrical arts, dedicated to opera and classical music in particular, is one of the most prestigious in France.

Each year it attracts top singers, as well as the likes of Les Arts Florissants, the Berlin Philharmonic and the London Symphony Orchestra – although more contemporary works are performed as well, some specially commissioned for the festival.

Concerts, along with an elite array of masterclasses, take place in beautiful historic venues in and around Aix-en-Provence.

A must for any art lover, the Granet Museum has a fascinating archaeological collection (including a reconstructed Celtic ‘head cult’ temple from nearby Entremont) and a remarkable array of works by Rubens, Rembrandt and Ingres.

Its 10 Cezanne paintings include a portrait of Emile Zola, the artist’s boyhood friend in Aix. From the 20th century come works by Giacometti, Mondrian, Balthus and Morandi and the excellent Collection Planque, with paintings by Degas, Picasso, de Stael, Braque and Klee.

Aix’s medieval cathedral is packed with treasures. Foremost among these is its recently restored masterpiece, the intricately detailed triptych of The Burning Bush (1476), painted by Nicolas Froment for Provence’s King Rene. It also contains a striking 6th-century baptistery and a tiny but exquisite 12th-century cloister, as well as beautifully sculpted doors.

The adjacent archbishop’s residence contains a fascinating tapestry museum, containing 17th- and 18th-century tapestries hidden there during the French Revolution, and only rediscovered in the 1840s.

The cathedral is a national monument, with architectural elements stretching back to the original Roman Forum of Aix, on which the cathedral was built. Later renovations include Romanesque and Gothic elements. The elegant columns in the baptistery, which was built in the 6th century, were probably from an ancient Roman temple that stood on the same site. The famous 16th-century walnut doors, sculpted with sibyls and fantastical beasts, are protected by wooden panels, which may be removed by request. Ask one of the volunteer guides.

Each morning, Aix hosts one of Provence’s best markets, overflowing with the freshest fruit, vegetables, herbs, meats, seafood and cheeses from local producers. On Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday mornings, it expands tenfold and includes a massive flower market.

This magnificent townhouse (1715), a beautifully restored hôtel particulier, features lavishly furnished period rooms, an exquisite garden, a film on Cezanne and temporary art exhibitions; a good stop for lunch, afternoon tea or dinner too.