Inkaterra La Casona

This 16th Century Spanish-colonial mansion overlooking a plaza in arty, boho San Blas, is so steeped in history you can imagine a conquistador stepping out of the front door, sword in hand.

The house was built over the training ground for Inca officers; Diego de Almagro (the conqueror of Chile) and Simón Bolívar – liberator of Spanish South America – are previous guests.

The original colonial brick masonry has been fully restored, baroque art adorns the walls, statues of saints sit on plinths next to modern sofas-to-sink-into in the lounge. The best rooms are the upper floor balcony suites overlooking the central atrium, with faux-antique furnishings and chunky wooden beds.

The spa is modest, but offers excellent massage treatments for guests who are feeling the altitude.