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Lyon, Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes, France
Credit Shutterstock.com/Keitma
Vieux (old) Lyon is the most beautiful (and touristy) quarter of the city. It’s tucked in between River Saone’s west bank and the steep Fourviere hillside – a narrow slice of land crammed with beautifully preserved mansions, many dating from the 16th-century French Renaissance. It’s especially famed for its traboules, which are secretive, narrow alleyways leading between the different mansions.
The quarter reveals how Lyon thrived in the Renaissance; many of its finest houses were built for Italian silk merchants. The area has been stunningly restored, but many of the mansions have very touristy establishments on the ground floor.
The area’s most significant building is Saint-Jean Cathedral, a sturdy Gothic structure on the Saone covered in intriguing carved panels. In the peaceful interior, the rose windows and astrological clock are highlights.
The quarter’s grandest mansion houses the Gadagne Museum. It includes two museums: the Museum of Lyon History tracing the city’s history since Medieval times, and the World Puppet Museum, with over 2,000 puppets.
Lyon, Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes, France
Experience
Set in the Tour Rose, a stand-out Renaissance building, this trendy food court contains multiple spaces managed by twelve creative chefs. Look out for international dishes with innovative local twists.
Good for age: 18+
Lyon, Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes, France
Experience
Housed in Vieux Lyon’s grandest mansion, this small museum is actually two museums: the Museum of Lyon History, which traces the history of the city since medieval times, and the World Puppet Museum, with over 2,000 puppets collected over centuries.
Adult price: £5
Good for age: 4+
Lyon, Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes, France
Experience
A must for film buffs: Artist Dan Ohlmann showcases 120 miniature scenes and hundreds of film props to reveal the way special effects are made in the world’s leading film studios.
Adult price: £8
Good for age: 4+
Lyon, Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes, France
Experience
Henri IV married Marie de Medicis in this stunning medieval cathedral, famed for its 16th-century astronomical clock and one the world’s largest 17th-century bells, rung up to 15 times a year.
Good for age: 18+
The streets of Vieux Lyon are best explored on foot. A whole series of delightful bridges, some pedestrian, cross the Saone from the Presqu’Ile into Vieux Lyon. You can pick up a map of the traboules (narrow alleyways) from the tourist office.
Walk down Rue St-Jean – it cuts right through Vieux Lyon, from north to south, but with many delightful squares punctuating the route. The way is packed with shops, eateries and architectural curiosities.
For eating and drinking after a wander, there are masses of restaurants in Vieux Lyon, but many are over-touristy. Les Loges in the Cour des Loges hotel hits the mark with stylish options, while Jeremy Galvan serves excellent creative tasting menus.
There are also one or two enchanting, authentic old-style patisseries in the quarter. A La Marquise on Rue St-Jean is a particular delight, with its own beautiful, secretive courtyard.
The traboules are at their most atmospheric first thing in the morning. Otherwise, early evening is a good time to visit, when the streets bustle with locals winding down.
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