Travel bucket list idea:

Stay at a ryokan in Kyoto

Kyoto, Kansai, Japan

Last updated: 05 April, 2024

To stay a night at one of Japan’s ryokan (traditional inns) is to immerse yourself in living history – the oldest hotel in the world is a ryokan, established in 705 and still going strong 51 generations later.

Ryokan can be modest or uber-luxurious, but there are defining traits.

Almost all have tatami mat rooms and futon beds, staff wearing traditional attire like kimono, and an air of calm and quiet. Many have in-house onsen baths, and serve traditional kaiseki-ryori dinners (if not the full 12-course extravaganza, then at least simpler multi-course dinner that focuses on local produce and specialities).

But it won’t be for everyone. Kids can find ryokan a bit dull – and the food challenging. The service, though often superb, can also be inflexible, with mealtimes locked into narrow windows and many mid-range and above ryokan not offering room-only stays. The best approach is to stay for just one night.

Recommendations

Hiiragiya Ryokan

Kyoto, Kansai, Japan
Official star rating:

Place to Stay

In business since 1818, this classic ryokan, in a quiet side street close to many of Kyoto’s central attractions, ticks all the traditional boxes – tatami-mat guestrooms, sublime 12-course kaiseki-ryori dinner, kimono-clad staff, and an air of tranquillity.

It’s easy to see why it has long been a haunt of dignitaries and Hollywood A-listers – Elizabeth Taylor, Charlie Chaplin and many more make an appearance in the sixth-generation owner’s family album.

When it comes to the 28 rooms, for spaciousness and an old-Kyoto ambience, request one of the four original ground-floor rooms with private gardens. For something sleeker, opt for a room in the newer, but traditionally crafted annex.

Whichever room type, the Hiiragiya is best for travellers who want their hotel to be an integral part of the experience. A ryokan is a place to unwind and slowly absorb Japanese culture.

Average £200

Extra beds

Pool

2+ bedrooms

Beach

Kids menu

Fitness center

Kids club

More details >

Hoshinoya Kyoto

Kyoto, Kansai, Japan
Official star rating:

Place to Stay

A contemporary, resort-like riff on the traditional ryokan, this uber-luxe retreat in a tranquil corner of the bustling Arashiyama district is one of those places you stay when you want your accommodation to be much more than a sightseeing base.

A stay here is experiential, from the short boat trip upriver from Arashiyama for check-in to cultural activities like incense appreciation and capping an evening with an artistically presented kaiseki-ryori dinner.

The spacious guestrooms are something to savour – a sleek blend of modern and traditional Japanese luxury. If there’s a drawback, it’s location. Arashiyama is great to explore for a couple of days, but then it’s a bit of a drag getting to other parts of Kyoto.

It’s best to splurge here for a night or two, then relocate.

Average £900