Bucket list experience:
Beijing, China
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This series of three connected lakes – Qianhai, Houhai and Xihai – is one of Beijing’s most popular tourist attractions, day and night.
Surrounded by willow trees, winding hutong lanes, bars and restaurants, the lakes are used for leisure boating in spring and summer, and ice skating and ice biking on the frozen waters during winter.
Dating back to the Yuan Dynasty, the man-made lakes once marked the northern terminal of the Grand Canal. Qing nobles built their homes here, and some, such as Prince Gong’s Mansion, can be visited and explored.
The lakes can be a great place to experience local culture, especially early in the morning. On the north shore of Houhai, Beijingers swim in the lake all year round, breaking the ice in winter for a freezing dip.
Rickshaw tours around the lakes are touristy but a highly pleasurable Houhai staple, though few if any drivers speak English. After dark, shoreline bars clad in neon attract hordes of drinkers.
Prince Gong’s Mansion, while Houhai’s top sight, suffers from some of the worst overtourism in Beijing. But another lakeside abode sees a fraction of the visitors and is well worth a visit. Song Qingling’s Former Residence is the mansion of Madam Song, the wife of revolutionary Sun Yatsen, and has been preserved like a museum.
Yandai Xiejie (Tobacco Pouch Alley) roughly links Houhai with the Drum and Bell Tower, and is lined with souvenir and snack shops. South of Qianhai, seek out Three Stone Kite Shop, a longstanding family business selling traditional hand-crafted paper kites.
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Destination Guide >Beijing, China
The grand residence of an imperial prince, this magnificent mansion close to Houhai Lake is most notable for its classical Chinese gardens. Pathways wind between carp ponds, artificial hills, ornate pavilions and even a miniature Great Wall folly.
Best for ages: 18+ | £5
The most direct way to arrive is by subway. Shichahai station (Line 6) is a few steps from the east of Xihai Lake, while Beihai North station (Line 8), is on the road between Xihai Lake and Beihai Park.
The lakeshores are most popular with walkers and strollers, but you will also find people jogging, cycling, and riding in rickshaws. If you opt for a rickshaw ride, be sure to barter hard, as the rickshaw driver’s first price offer will inevitably be inflated.
Houhai is open all year round, seven days a week, both day and night.
Daytime can be oppressively hot during the summer months of July and August.
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Our writer’s picks of the best places to stay near this experience, closest first
Beijing, China[1.2 miles]
Easy-going boutique hideaway with an authentic hutong setting. Houhai Lake is a short walk away, and breakfasts feature artisanal, locally-sourced ingredients.
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Beijing, China[1.6 miles]
Modish design hotel combining Kengo Kuma’s architectural invention with contemporary interiors and top dining.
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Beijing, China[4 miles]
Enjoying a central location and huge, all-suite rooms, the long-established Peninsula is a safe bet for a holiday splurge.
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Beijing, China[4 miles]
Palatial guest rooms and Forbidden City views make this Beijing’s best hotel for a special occasion splurge. Its Wangfujing location puts the city’s central sights within walking distance.
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Destination guides including or relevant to this experience
China
A burgeoning megacity with one foot in the past, Beijing is a marvellous melange of UNESCO-listed heritage buildings set within an ever-more tech-forward cityscape. Come for the culture, the people, and of course the food.
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Beijing, China[1.9 miles]
Once the preserve of emperors, the sculpted surrounds of Beihai Park are dotted with fascinating temples, halls and pavilions, and crowned by the magnificent White Dagoba, towering over the central boating lake.
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Beijing, China[2.2 miles]
Beijing’s best park is also one of its only central hills, offering inspiring views of the Forbidden City. It’s also where elderly locals come to sing, dance and let off steam.
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Beijing’s most spectacular religious site, this palatial temple complex is a reminder of China’s long and complex association with Tibet and Tibetan Buddhism.
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A magnificent and unique 15th-century complex of imperial palaces that served as the home of Chinese emperors for 500 years. Beijing’s must-see attraction.
Best for ages: 13+ | £6
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Beijing’s official timekeeper since the age of the Mongols, this splendid, 47-meter tall stone tower, facing its compatriot the Drum Tower, houses a gigantic copper bell said to weigh over 60 tons.
Best for ages: 13+ | £3
Beijing, China[0.9 miles]
Rising up imperiously over grey hutong rooftops, the Drum Tower (together with the adjacent Bell Tower) has sounded the rhythm of Beijing for centuries. Climb the steep steps for exhibits on time-keeping in ancient China, and an hourly drumming performance.
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Carved tortoise-like beasts heave enormous stone slabs on their backs at this grand temple complex honouring China’s foremost spiritual thinker, the great sage Confucius. The attached Guozijian (Imperial College) is where scholars of old studied for their civil service exams.
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Beijing, China[4.1 miles]
The big-ticket attraction at China’s oldest zoo is the impressive giant panda enclosure where Beijing’s beloved bears get the VIP treatment. You can also spot a cast of beasts endemic to China including Siberian tigers, snow leopards and golden snub-nosed monkeys.
Best for ages: 4+ | £2
