Beijing’s imperial history

Destroyed by British and French armies during the Second Opium War, what was one of the world’s greatest classical Chinese gardens is now wistful ruins, lakes and parkland. A relaxing place for a wander, it sees far fewer crowds than the ‘new’ Summer Palace nearby.

An hour outside Beijing are the mausolea of 13 emperors of the Ming Dynasty. You can walk the ‘Spirit Way’ to the first tomb, a funerary avenue flanked by statues of animals, mythical beasts and officials, and descend into another of the tombs.

A former imperial garden in the heart of the capital, Beihai Park is visible for miles around thanks to the Tibetan-style White Dagoba that rises up imperiously over the lake (Beihai literally means northern sea).

Around the lotus-strewn waters, plied by pleasure boats in summer, are ornate temples, pavilions, and former imperial residences. Be sure to seek out the Nine Dragon Screen, a 27m-long ‘spirit wall’ carved with writhing dragons, the symbol of the emperor.

The grand residence of an imperial prince, this magnificent mansion close to Houhai Lake is most notable for its classical Chinese gardens. Pathways wind between carp ponds, artificial hills, ornate pavilions and even a miniature Great Wall folly.

On the western outskirts of the city, this imperial mausoleum is unusual in that it was bestowed upon a powerful eunuch from the late Ming dynasty. An attached museum has centuries-old castration knives and the corpse of one of the tomb’s occupants.

Qing emperors would come to this complex, resembling a miniature Forbidden City, to worship their royal ancestors. The rearmost Sacrificial Hall, now a gallery space, is one of the most magnificent imperial buildings in China.

For centuries, Beijing’s royals have decamped to the Fragrant Hills, an undulating landscape of pine forest dotted with temples, pagodas and lookouts. On a clear day you can see the skyscrapers of downtown Beijing from 557m-high Incense-Burner Peak.

Beijing’s official timekeeper since the age of the Mongols, this splendid, 47-meter tall stone tower, facing its compatriot the Drum Tower, houses a gigantic copper bell said to weigh over 60 tons.

Built in the early 15th century, the Forbidden City is a vast palace complex of regal halls, ceremonial courtyards, gardens and living quarters, that served as the home of Chinese emperors and their households for 500 years. Behind its vermilion walls was a closed-off world of antique ritual and intrigue, where the ‘Son of Heaven’ was tended to by an army of servants, eunuchs and concubines.

Today the palace complex is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the world’s largest collection of heritage wooden buildings. Officially called the Palace Museum, many of the rooms have been given over to museum exhibits of imperial treasures, from priceless ceramics to Qing-dynasty furniture.

Its central location, historic importance and architectural beauty make this Beijing’s most popular site of interest for tourists.

Protecting the Forbidden City from icy winds and evil spirits, this 45m-high artificial hill is Beijing’s best park and a great vantage point, offering superb views over the Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square beyond.

It was once part of Beijing’s imperial city, and is most famous as the site where the last Ming emperor hanged himself as peasant rebels stormed the capital in 1644.

The climb up to the ornate Wanchun Pavilion, the park’s most famous viewpoint, is relatively gentle, and on route you’re sure to pass groups of locals singing, dancing and playing music.

The Temple of Heaven is unlike any other temple in China. In fact, it’s not really a temple at all but a richly symbolic event space of sorts, where the emperor, accompanied by a grand entourage, would perform arcane rites twice a year to pray for heaven’s blessing.

Ceremonies took place upon the open-air Round Altar, next to the Imperial Vault of Heaven where the spirit tablets of the gods were kept. A 360m-long paved walkway connects to the splendid centrepiece, the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests.

Surrounded by sculpted parkland, the layout of the complex was designed to reflect Chinese cosmology and symbolise the relationship between heaven and earth.

The former retreat of China’s imperial rulers, the Summer Palace is a masterpiece of classical Chinese garden design on a truly awesome scale. Artificial hills, lakes, opulent buildings and graceful arched bridges convene in carefully orchestrated harmony.

Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the gardens, 12km northwest of the Forbidden City, were first built in the 12th century but were developed to their artistic height during the Qing Dynasty (1644 – 1912).

Most famously, the Summer Palace became the royal retirement home of Cixi, the Empress Dowager, a formidable character who ruled China from behind the curtain for almost five decades. The palace and its gardens were remodelled to serve as her private retirement complex.

There’s plenty to see and do, from strolling the famous ‘Long Corridor’ to pleasure boating on Kunming Lake. Several of the palace buildings hold historical artefacts and exhibits, including possessions belonging to the Empress Dowager.

Feast on the splendid banquet dishes of imperial cuisine, the fare served to emperors, at this high-end themed restaurant where Peking opera singers regale diners and staff dress as Qing dynasty nobles.