39 Best things to see & do in Istanbul

A masterpiece of Byzantine architecture, this world-renowned 6th-century marvel encapsulates the essence of the lost Ottoman Empire in stone.

With a great dome and marble columns adorned with frescoes and glittering gold mosaics, the Church of the ‘Holy Wisdom’ was the last major creation of classical antiquity and the centre of the Byzantine world for 1,000 years. Initially a cathedral, then a mosque, it’s now a museum as well as a functioning mosque – and a must-see in Istanbul.

This luxurious, modern ‘European’ palace on the banks of the Bosphorus was built on the order of the Ottoman Empire’s 31st Sultan, Abdulmecid I, and was built between the years 1843 and 1856. An extraordinary and unique architectural curiosity, the Dolmabahce blends Ottoman architecture with Baroque, Rococo and Neoclassical details – it’s overwhelming to the point of kitsch, and so lavish that it bankrupted the Empire.

Don’t trust the clocks: they all say 9.05, stopped at the hour when the Turkish revolutionary statesman Ataturk died here on 10 November 1938.

After conquering Constantinople, Mehmet the Conqueror converted the Hagia Sophia, the great Byzantine church, into a mosque. By the 1500s, the sultans were transforming Istanbul’s skyline with spectacular granite, marble and tile mosques inspired by the Hagia Sophia – many including complexes of hammams, schools, libraries and markets to fund them.

The legacy was almost 3,000 mosques (more than any other city on earth) of which the magnificent Ottoman imperial mosques – the 17th-century Blue Mosque and Sinan’s Suleymaniye Mosque – are the undoubted stars.

In 1453, Mehmet the Conqueror found the old Byzantine Great Palace uninhabitable, so he built a new one – the opulent Topkapi Palace – which set the style and remained the seat of power for centuries.

Other more flamboyant Sultans followed suit, no expense spared, in building their own palaces and monuments. The result was a legacy of 11 extravagant palaces, reaching a dizzying level of crystal chandelier splendour in the Dolmabahce Palace. Some of the palaces are summer houses and mansions, one (the Ciragan Palace) is now a 5-star hotel, but many are retained as museums.

Built in 1459 to become the 15th and 16th-century home of the Ottoman Sultans, this enormous complex became the centre of the Ottoman world. Now it’s a perfectly preserved time capsule of life at the top in this most exotic of empires. Some parts of the palace, especially the harem and the sultans’ private quarters, rank among the finest works of Turkish architecture and art.

The museum holds Ottoman clothing, weapons, armour, miniatures, religious relics, and illuminated manuscripts such as the Topkapi manuscript. The collections the sultans piled up over the centuries – from glittering jewels to Prophet Muhammad’s tooth – are beyond belief.

Built on the orders of Sultan Ahmet I (1603–17) to rival the Hagia Sophia in grandeur and beauty – and completed in 1616, one year before his death – the Blue Mosque (aka Sultan Ahmed Mosque) is considered one of the last great mosques of the classical period, combining Byzantine elements with traditional Islamic architecture.

With six slender minarets and a beautiful dome, it dominates Istanbul’s skyline. The interior is decorated with 21,000 hand-painted (mostly blue) tiles and stunning stained-glass windows.

The whole area around the Blue Mosque was once the site of the Byzantine emperors’ Great Palace. Some of the palace’s recently discovered, lavish floor mosaics, dating from AD 450-550, are on display at the Great Palace Mosaic Museum.

Dressed in long white robes with tall hats symbolising tombstones, members of the Mevlevi order (more popularly known as whirling dervishes) are followers of the 13th-century mystic Mevlana Rumi, who would spin into ecstatic circles overcome by his love for God.

The sema ceremony recalls Rumi’s spiritual journey as the dervishes whirl to the Sufi’s haunting, hypnotic music. UNESCO recently placed the dervishes on its Intangible Heritage of Humanity list.

The Hodjapasha Culture Center, an Istanbul cultural centre housed in a 15th-century bathhouse, stages a haunting sema of dervishes whirling to a classical Turkish orchestra, and other traditional dances from across Anatolia.

Dances of Colours perform traditional semas in an equally authentic setting: the 19th-century home of dervish Ismail Dede Efendi.

Its centuries as an imperial capital have also left it some extraordinary historical art to seek out – the gorgeous mosaics in the Chora and Grand Palace museums from the Byzantine era, and from Ottoman times, a hoard of beautiful things: miniatures, glass and metalwork, carved and inlaid woodwork, colour-drenched tiles, ebru (paper marbling) rugs and calligraphy. The Topkapi Palace offers a compelling intro, but it’s well worthwhile seeking out the art in Istanbul’s museums.

But in recent decades, a young, vibrant Istanbul has become a world-class centre for contemporary art too, with several new museums, as well as the Biennale and Istanbul Contemporary art fairs, creating a unique and enticing blend of old-meets-new.

It’s the oldest shopping mall in the world, and possibly the biggest, with 5,000 shops to browse through. Glittering like Aladdin’s cave, Istanbul’s Covered Market or Grand Bazaar consists of 66 streets covered with stone vaulting and enclosed by a wall.

All of Turkey’s treasures are on display, but it’s an everyday market too, selling everything from diamonds to dishcloths; during peak times there are as many as half a million people inside its walls. Maybe not the best place for bargains, but an unparalleled treat for the senses, and an essential part of the Istanbul experience.

Turkish cuisine is one of the world’s finest, and Istanbul has always been the best place to eat it. Today it’s the epicentre of the slow-food-style New Anatolian Kitchen movement, led by celebrity chef Mehmet Gurs – discovering, reviving and riffing off thousands of nearly-forgotten dishes and ingredients from across Turkey.

Dishes are fresh and unfussy, served with the local olive oil, garlic, and tomatoes. Expect plenty of seafood, especially golden fried anchovies, and cured hams and lamb dishes.

Turkish food is ideal for vegetarians, with many of the meze dishes (cold and hot starters) based around yoghurt, aubergine and vegetables, with lots of fresh herbs, including mint, dill and parsley. The traditional accompaniment to a meal is raki, an aniseed-flavoured drink, rather like ouzo, which should be mixed with water and ice.

Built in the 17th century, Istanbul’s second largest bazaar is a colourful, fragrant wonderland and a must-visit for anyone curious about Istanbul’s east-meets-west culture.

Once the last stop for caravans arriving on the Silk Road from China, the Spice (or Egyptian) Bazaar now only deals in spices, nuts, honeys, teas, hennas and sweets, including dozens of flavours of lokum (known elsewhere as turkish delight), which was invented by an Istanbul pastry chef in 1776.

With its 53m-high dome and trademark slender minarets, this is Istanbul’s grandest mosque and a Byzantine beauty.

Modelled on the Hagia Sophia and designed by the greatest Ottoman architect, Mimar Sinan, it was built in 1558 for the most powerful of Ottoman sultans, Suleyman I, also known as ‘The Magnificent’, and houses the mausoleums of both the sultan and Mimar Sinan.

Dating from the reign of Byzantine Emperor Justinian I in the 6th century, this ‘Underground Palace’ is the largest of several hundred ancient cisterns (reservoirs) built beneath Istanbul to provide water to the palaces of the Ottoman emperors. Illuminated, and decorated with marble columns and carved capitals from earlier churches, it’s a magical sight.   

The name derives from a great Basilica – the Stoa Basilica – that once stood here, built between the 3rd and 4th centuries during the Early Roman Age.

Linking the Sea of Marmara and the Black Sea, the 32km Bosphorus strait divides Istanbul itself, and Europe from Asia. One of the world’s busiest waterways, it’s also one of the most fascinating – passing grand Ottoman palaces, the majestic Bosphorus bridge, picturesque Ottoman yalis (wooden villas), seaside villages and the Rumeli Hisari (‘the Fortress of Europe’).

Options range from one-hour trips to a full day’s cruise, on vessels ranging from no-frills public ferries to luxury dinner cruises.

Built in 1892 at the terminus of the legendary Orient Express, the Pera Palace Hotel is a historic monument and the most famous hotel in Istanbul – this is where everyone from Alfred Hitchcock to the Kennedys bedded down in the golden age of travel. Room 411 is where Agatha Christie wrote Murder on the Orient Express.

For a refined escape from the bustle of the city, and to experience old imperial Istanbul, stop in for traditional English afternoon tea in the hotel’s atmospheric, red-velvet, gilt-edged Kubbeli Salon. Join the Istanbul elite, who lap up French pastries served on rare Christofle silver, to the accompanying sounds of a live Schiedmayer grand piano.

The legendary Pera Palace remains an icon of imperial grandeur.

The hammam, or Turkish Bath, is one of Turkey’s quintessential experiences: a deep cleanse, sweat-out, relax and (optional) heavy-duty massage all in one. Additional services include a massage and a rub-down with a kese (an abrasive glove), to remove layers of dead skin.

To visit Istanbul without indulging in this authentic Turkish bathing ritual is to miss out on one of the city’s best experiences. Besides the joys of an invigorating (and thorough) full body scrub and relaxing massage in beautiful marbled bathhouses, the city has several beautiful, historic hammams that are sights in their own right.

Many luxury hotels have a ‘hammam’, and offer a more personalised, private experience, but the authentic experience can only be had at a public one.

They may not attract the crowds of the nearby Topkapi Palace, but this trio of world-class archaeology museums set in the gorgeous Gulhane Gardens is worth a visit for anyone even remotely interested in history.

The main Archaeology Museum has a predominantly classical collection dating from the 19th century; the Ancient Orient Museum has spectacular finds from Babylon and Assyria; while classic Turkish ceramics star in the lovely Tiled Kiosk building.

A modern art museum housing the finest collection of modern and contemporary art in the country. The Modern’s temporary exhibits by Turkish and international artists – often organized in collaboration with MoMA (New York) and the Centre Pompidou (Paris) – are particularly exceptional.

This treasure trove of Islamic art and artefacts holds one of the world’s finest collections of Islamic-influenced glassware, rugs, ceramics, carpets, calligraphy, metalwork and ethnographic items, spanning over a thousand years. It offers a fascinating insight into the rich artistic and cultural heritage of Turkey. A must for decorative arts fans.

Located on the Asian side of the Bosphorus, Kadikoy Market is Istanbul’s foodie central, a gastro-riot of local produce including seafood, fruit and vegetable stalls, herbs, spices and cheeses. There’s also a flea market mixed in, selling antiques, second-hand goods and surprising curiosities in over-filled stalls. Tuesdays and Fridays.

A fascinating and quirky military museum with an astonishing array of uniforms, weapons and battle standards. Upstairs, there is a room devoted to the revolutionary statesman Ataturk, founder of modern Turkey. Go around 3pm for an unforgettably weird re-creation of a 17th-century military band concert.

This huge museum, dedicated to industrial heritage and technology, features just about everything from submarines to streetcars, mechanical toys to wacky inventions. Located in a historic waterfront building, it showcases a collection of vintage cars, trains, maritime artefacts, and scientific instruments. One for those interested in science, technology, and the history of transportation.

This stunning palace was built in 1865 by Sultan Abdulaziz (1830–1876) as a summer residence and to entertain guests – Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph and French Emperor Napoleon III’s wife, Empress Eugenie, both visited.

The palace’s opulent interior features a blend of Ottoman, Baroque, and Rococo styles, adorned with exquisite chandeliers, gilded ceilings, and luxurious furnishings. Notable rooms include the reception hall, the Grand Hall, and the Sultan’s study.

Today, the main structure and harem sections are open to visitors. Explore its lavish rooms and beautifully manicured gardens for a fascinating insight into the grandeur of the Ottoman Empire and the decadent lifestyles of its sultans.

For a glimpse into the ancient Byzantine era, try this museum showcasing a vast collection of beautifully preserved 5th and 6th-century AD mosaics and artefacts from the Great Palace of Constantinople, the palace of the first Byzantine Emperors. Marvel at intricate designs depicting mythological scenes, historical figures and nature.

These city walls, started by Emperor Constantine in AD 324 and expanded by later emperors, were the greatest fortifications of late antiquity – though not sufficient to prevent the successful Ottoman invasion in AD 1453. Many sections were sadly dismantled in the 19th century as the city expanded.

Escape the city mayhem by taking Istanbul’s teleferik (cable car) up to the interesting suburban village of Eyup, older than Istanbul itself. Sip on a Turkish coffee at one of the many cafes and tea gardens, and admire the panoramic views of the city’s skyline and the Golden Horn. The 10-minute ride starts at the bottom of Pierre Loti Hill.

One of the world’s top showcases for international contemporary art. Every 2 years,  renowned artists from around the world display paintings, installations, films, and more in unique settings all across the city.

On the lesser-explored Asian side of Istanbul, this petite palace, built in 1857, served as a hunting lodge and summer retreat for Sultan Abdulmecid I. Inside, it’s lavishly furnished with crystal chandeliers, marble fireplaces and Persian rugs. It’s open to the public as a museum.

Set in a grand villa on the banks of the Bosphorus, this museum features a permanent collection of calligraphy, paintings, and archaeological finds from the Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman eras.

A historic shop founded in 1876, this is the place to try boza, an ancient fermented drink, made from water, barley and sugar and garnished with cinnamon and chickpea powder. In summer, sira a local grape juice is also served.

One of the world’s best restaurants, Mikla is headed up by chef Mehmet Gurs, father of the New Anatolian Kitchen culinary movement. Situated on a rooftop terrace in Beyoglu, all meals come with spectacular views.

Housed in the city’s former power plant, this vibrant cultural complex houses contemporary art galleries, a museum, theatres, a library, and a concert hall. It also features outdoor spaces and a scenic waterfront. There’s a diverse program of exhibitions; it’s art museum combines industrial archaeology and contemporary Turkish art in Istanbul’s answer to London’s Tate Modern.

This gleaming white bathhouse was designed in 1556 by Mimar Sinan, the architect of the city’s greatest mosques – it’s now a modern, luxurious spa (albeit an expensive one) and a destination in itself. A basic 30-minute bath treatment includes a kese scrub and olive-oil soap massage.

An unassuming 11th-century church that’s home to a remarkable collection of late-Byzantine paintings and mosaics in a far more intimate and accessible setting than the vast Hagia Sophia. Open daily.

One of the city’s oldest and best-preserved Byzantine palaces, the Tekfur Palace aka ‘Palace of the Porphyrogenitus’ was built during the 12th century as a royal residence for the Byzantine emperors. It now lies abandoned, with ruins for visitors to explore.

A big beautiful bathhouse dating back to 1580, it recently reopened after a 7-year restoration. It includes a special hammam for children (of all ages). 

Super authentic spot near the Grand Bazaar where you can smoke nargile (a water pipe or hookah) and drink tea in the courtyard of a mosque from 1709.

A beautiful 16th-century hammam designed by Mimar Sinan, this bathhouse offers facial masks and other spa treatments alongside classic Turkish treatments. As authentic as it gets.

A museum offering a glimpse into the world of Orientalist paintings, and contemporary Turkish art. It houses fine collections of Ottoman art, tiles and ceramics – plus big-name travelling exhibitions – set in a former grand hotel.