7 Best places to stay in Crete

High in the mountains of Western Crete, Milia was a trailblazer for sustainable tourism long before it became a buzzword. A 16th-century settlement of stone cottages, once used by chestnut farmers, has been carefully transformed into cosy, distinctively Cretan accommodation.

Local authenticity runs through every detail: from the woven bedspreads to the artisan jams at breakfasts, and especially in the superb, sophisticated Cretan cuisine at the restaurant (a destination in its own right).

They offer hikes in the surrounding area, cooking classes and a jam-making, where you go pick the seasonal fruits yourself on a short hike.

Surrounded by thick forests threaded with hiking trails, this is a place to commune with nature in the company of like-minded travellers and big-hearted locals.

This cheerful, family-friendly resort got a makeover in 2019 and still feels very of the moment — from the striped loungers and rattan armchairs to the botanical murals.

Low-rise rooms are set in lush and lovely gardens. Sustainability is a key driver, with an organic kitchen garden supplying the surprisingly good handful of restaurants.

Catering to the low-cost party crowd, Malia is certainly not the prettiest part of Crete. And the rocky seabed is not ideal for swimming (there are three pools to make up for that). But it’s only 25km to Knossos and the lesser Minoan palace of Malia is just 2km away.

The most feted five-star hotel on Crete, Blue Palace is a consistent crowd-pleaser (albeit a crowd with very high standards).

The setting on a wide pebble beach is secluded and serene. Just beyond the opulent resorts of Elounda, several tiers of boxy buildings rise above the gulf of Mirabello. The views of the little island of Spinalonga are magical, especially from the veranda of the Arsenali bar at dusk.

Rooms, suites, and bungalows vary considerably in style, size and outlook. Facilities are plentiful, if occasionally a little dated, with all the thoughtful touches you would expect from a Luxury Collection resort.

If heritage charm in the heart of Chania’s old town is what you’re after, look no further. Casa Delfino is a 17th-century Venetian mansion that has been in the same family for six generations.

Suites are individually furnished, with a modern sensibility rather than period décor. Lavish marble bathrooms are almost as sensuous as the spa.

Open year-round, Casa Delfino is easily the most romantic option in Chania. The view across the harbour from the roof terrace is sensational. A superb Cretan breakfast in the mosaic-lined, arched courtyard is equally enchanting.

Rustic yet refined, Kapsaliana is agrotourism for the modern epicurean. Decades in the making, the hotel was once a stone farming settlement built around an old olive mill (now a museum).

It’s a brilliant revival project that feels as though it has always been there (although the swimming pool and excellent organic restaurant are welcome new additions).

The buildings once belonged to the Arkadi monastery, a magical place to visit, just 5km away. A half-hour drive from Rethymno, this mountain hamlet is surrounded by glorious orchards, olive groves, and great hiking trails. You’ll definitely need a car.

This recently refreshed Design Hotel has been around the 1960s — a modernist, minimalist landmark on Mirabello Bay. It’s owned by the art collecting Mamidakis family, who have created a stunning site-specific sculpture garden, with monumental installations by predominantly Greek artists.

Low-rise bungalows and villas with private pools hug the shoreline, so most have sea views. The coast is rocky, but you can dive (or climb) into the Aegean from little jetties studded with sunbeds jutting out to sea.

A few kilometres from the busy resort town of Agios Nikolaos, and about half an hour from Knossos, Minos Beach offers a slice of seaside serenity.

Under the watchful magpie eye of owner/manager, Nikos Tsepetis, Ammos has evolved from a mid-range, mid-size 90’s hotel into a landmark property on Crete (and indeed Europe). Diehard fans return year after year for the hip design (with new additions and fresh looks each season), excellent Cretan comfort food, and warm, genuine service.

The location on sandy (if unspectacular) Agioi Apostoloi beach, a 10-minute drive from Chania town, is another major draw, especially for families. A seaside pool, playroom, and a few hours of free childcare  on weekdays make this an extra attractive proposition for parents of young children.