Rajasthan’s state capital is a compelling blend of huge hillside forts, extravagant palaces, bustling bazaars, memorable heritage hotels and almost comically thronged streets.
A few kilometres northeast of Amer village and Amber Fort, Khas Bagh resembles a cross between a noble’s haveli, or mansion, and a maharajah’s hunting lodge.
Its heritage feel and atmosphere is quite deliberate and well-executed, with archways and arched windows, decorative lattice parapets, retro-styled furniture and manicured gardens.
Yet the atmosphere is more like an upscale homestay. The hosts are an ex-Indian Army colonel and his polo-playing son, together with their wives.
Horses are a thing here; the property has its own paddocks and guests can go horse-riding or watch polo matches nearby – or simply lounge about beside the pool.
Shielded by trees and gardens, Khas Bagh’s location on the edge of a rural hamlet makes it a particularly tranquil retreat.
It’s just 2km from the Delhi-Jaipur highway, 7km from the Amber Fort and 22km from central Jaipur. Local cycling tours can also be arranged.
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