no alt text

Bucket list experience:

Last updated: 29 May, 2023
Expert travel writer: Dana Facaros

The famously 1,450m pass over the Pyrenees in Navarra has seen more than its share of history. It’s where Charlemagne’s nephew Roland was famously ambushed by the Basques in the 778 Battle of Roncevaux (see the Chanson de Roland); Napoleon invaded this way, too, hence the name Route Napoleon.

Ascending from St-Jean-Pied-de Port, it also marks the first stage of the Camino Frances in Spain. It’s the hardest but one of most spectacular stages of the pilgrimage – an essential stop imbued with memories of the millions of pilgrims who passed through over the millennia.

The landmark 13th-century Gothic church, the Royal Colegiata was inspired by Notre Dame in Paris; along with its Treasures Museum, it offers a fascinating hodgepodge of legendary relics, paintings, manuscripts and goldwork associated with the Camino. One of the most astonishing sights is the effigy on the tomb of King Sancho the Strong, who really stood 7ft 4 and won a famous Reconquista battle in 1212.

Don’t miss 

While you’re there, don’t miss the famous views over the Pyrenees from the reconstructed medieval church of San Salvador de Ibaneta and its monument to Roland and the pilgrims.

Price: Free
Minimum age: Any
Age suitable: 18+
When: All year around

Getting there & doing it

Artieda buses from Pamplona go up to Roncevalles every afternoon at 6pm (4pm on Saturdays) and return at 7am, and take an hour and 45 minutes. It’s a 47km drive – less than an hour in good weather, or about nine hours by foot, for the rare pilgrim walking back the way they came.

There’s an albergue for pilgrims at the Colegiata, and three small hotels, where you can find inexpensive meals.

When to do it

Although you should be able to drive through Roncevalles year-round, the winter weather is unpredictable; if it looks too dangerous, pilgrims on foot or bikes may be advised to wait lower down in the town of Valcarlos (which also has a pilgrimage albergue) until the weather clears.

Recommended itineraries by our writers that include this experience

Our writer’s picks of the best places to stay near this experience, closest first

Pamplona Catedral Hotel

Pamplona, Navarra, Spain[33.8 miles]

In a quiet spot on the edge of Pamplona’s historic centre, an urbane four-star boutique hotel in a former 19th-century convent.

Official star rating:

Grand Hotel La Perla

Pamplona, Navarra, Spain[33.9 miles]

Sleep where Hemingway and every other celebrity bunked in Pamplona’s historic, charming fivestar hotel. The city’s grand dame.

Official star rating:

Hotel Tres Reyes

Pamplona, Navarra, Spain[34.5 miles]

Large, modern and immaculate 4star hotel in Pamplona’s centrewith a good restaurant, pool and easy parking.

Official star rating:

Hotel Villa Soro

San Sebastian, Basque Country, Spain[62.7 miles]

In a 19th-century garden villa, this hotel feels like a country retreat, within walking distance of central San Sebastian’s city centre.

Official star rating:

Destination guides including or relevant to this experience

Pamplona

Navarra, Spain

A vibrant Basque city on the Camino de Santiago, home to Spain’s most famous festival (San Fermin), a gorgeous cathedral and a lively bar and tapas scene.

Website >
Overview >

Our writer’s recommendations of other bucket list experiences our writer says you must do in this destination, closest first

Festival of San Fermin

Pamplona, Nevarra, Spain[34.3 miles]

Pamplona’s famous and exuberant week-long fiesta – Spain’s biggest party – which includes the infamous encierro (running of the bulls).

Best for ages: 18+ | Free | One week

Website >
Overview >

San Sebastian’s best food & drink

San Sebastian, Basque Country, Spain[62.7 miles]

Our summary of the typical foods, ingredients and flavours, cooking styles, dining scene and best foodie experiences in San Sebastian.

Best for ages: 13+ | Free | Any

Website >
Overview >

Other worthwhile experiences near this experience if you have time or interest..

Pamplona Cathedral
Experience

Pamplona Cathedral

Pamplona, Navarra, Spain[33.7 miles]

A soaring Gothic cathedral famed for its elegant cloister and 15th-century alabaster tomb of Carlos III of Navarra, a former king of Navarra. Climb the bell tower and stop by the small museum housing religious treasures.

Best for ages: 18+ | Free

Website >
Overview >
Cafe Iruna
Experience

Cafe Iruna

Pamplona, Navarra, Spain[34 miles]

For Hemingway fans, a drink in his beloved Cafe Iruna on main Plaza del Castillo is a must; he’s still there in spirit, with his statue jauntily holding up the bar. It’s a charismatic old bar (founded 1888), with lovely views over the square, but a magnet for tourists.

Best for ages: 18+ | Free

Website >
Overview >
Museo de Navarra in Pamplona, Navarre. The facade has been preserved from the 16th century
Experience

Navarra Museum

Pamplona, Navarra, Spain[34 miles]

The four-storey museum, housed in an old, 16th-century hospital, is home to regional artworks from prehistoric times to the 20th century. It’s packed with gems, including Roman mosaics, Romanesque sculpture, Gothic murals, and a portrait by Goya.

Best for ages: 18+ | £2

Website >
Overview >
inside the cider house, people sitting at tables by big barrels
Experience

Petritegi Cider House

San Sebastian, Basque Country, Spain[59.3 miles]

Dine on cod dishes and steaks in this traditional cider house (sagardotegi), just outside San Sebastian. They’ve been making cider here for over 500 years. They offer guided tours of the apple orchards and cider works; their typical set menus are online.

Best for ages: 18+ | Free

Website >
Overview >