San Sebastian & Rioja 5-day Itinerary
Spain
Where to go and what to see in San Sebastian & the Rioja Wine Region – a 5-day itinerary from destination expert and travel writer Dana Facaros.
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Overview >Bucket list experience:
Roncesvalles
Royal Collegiate Church at Roncesvalles
Last updated: 29 May, 2023
The famously 1,450m pass over the Pyrenees in Navarra has seen more than its share of history. It’s where Charlemagne’s nephew Roland was famously ambushed by the Basques in the 778 Battle of Roncevaux (see the Chanson de Roland); Napoleon invaded this way, too, hence the name Route Napoleon.
Ascending from St-Jean-Pied-de Port, it also marks the first stage of the Camino Frances in Spain. It’s the hardest but one of most spectacular stages of the pilgrimage – an essential stop imbued with memories of the millions of pilgrims who passed through over the millennia.
The landmark 13th-century Gothic church, the Royal Colegiata was inspired by Notre Dame in Paris; along with its Treasures Museum, it offers a fascinating hodgepodge of legendary relics, paintings, manuscripts and goldwork associated with the Camino. One of the most astonishing sights is the effigy on the tomb of King Sancho the Strong, who really stood 7ft 4 and won a famous Reconquista battle in 1212.
Don’t miss
While you’re there, don’t miss the famous views over the Pyrenees from the reconstructed medieval church of San Salvador de Ibaneta and its monument to Roland and the pilgrims.
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Destination Guide >Price: Free
Minimum age: Any
Age suitable: 18+
When: All year around
Getting there & doing it
Artieda buses from Pamplona go up to Roncevalles every afternoon at 6pm (4pm on Saturdays) and return at 7am, and take an hour and 45 minutes. It’s a 47km drive – less than an hour in good weather, or about nine hours by foot, for the rare pilgrim walking back the way they came.
There’s an albergue for pilgrims at the Colegiata, and three small hotels, where you can find inexpensive meals.
When to do it
Although you should be able to drive through Roncevalles year-round, the winter weather is unpredictable; if it looks too dangerous, pilgrims on foot or bikes may be advised to wait lower down in the town of Valcarlos (which also has a pilgrimage albergue) until the weather clears.
Recommended itineraries by our writers that include this experience
San Sebastian 3-day Itinerary
Spain
Where to go and what to see in San Sebastian to get the most from your trip – a 3-day itinerary from destination expert and travel writer Dana Facaros.
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Overview >Our writer’s picks of the best places to stay near this experience, closest first
Pamplona Catedral Hotel
Pamplona, Navarra, Spain[33.8 miles]
In a quiet spot on the edge of Pamplona’s historic centre, an urbane four-star boutique hotel in a former 19th-century convent.
Official star rating:
Grand Hotel La Perla
Pamplona, Navarra, Spain[33.9 miles]
Sleep where Hemingway and every other celebrity bunked in Pamplona’s historic, charming five–star hotel. The city’s grand dame.
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Hotel Tres Reyes
Pamplona, Navarra, Spain[34.5 miles]
Large, modern and immaculate 4–star hotel in Pamplona’s centre, with a good restaurant, pool and easy parking.
Official star rating:
Hotel Villa Soro
San Sebastian, Basque Country, Spain[62.7 miles]
In a 19th-century garden villa, this hotel feels like a country retreat, within walking distance of central San Sebastian’s city centre.
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Destination guides including or relevant to this experience
Pamplona
Navarra, Spain
A vibrant Basque city on the Camino de Santiago, home to Spain’s most famous festival (San Fermin), a gorgeous cathedral and a lively bar and tapas scene.
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San Sebastian
Basque Country, Spain
A grand but charming beach resort in northern Spain famous for its glut of Michelin-recognised restaurants and superb pintxos.
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Overview >Our writer’s recommendations of other bucket list experiences our writer says you must do in this destination, closest first
Festival of San Fermin
Pamplona, Nevarra, Spain[34.3 miles]
Pamplona’s famous and exuberant week-long fiesta – Spain’s biggest party – which includes the infamous encierro (running of the bulls).
Best for ages: 18+ | Free | One week
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San Sebastian’s best food & drink
San Sebastian, Basque Country, Spain[62.7 miles]
Our summary of the typical foods, ingredients and flavours, cooking styles, dining scene and best foodie experiences in San Sebastian.
Best for ages: 13+ | Free | Any
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San Sebastian International Film Festival
San Sebastian, Basque Country, Spain[63.8 miles]
Enjoy the pictures and pintxos at this accessible, A-list film festival in Spain’s culinary capital.
Best for ages: 18+ | £5 | One week
Other worthwhile experiences near this experience if you have time or interest..
Experience
Pamplona Cathedral
Pamplona, Navarra, Spain[33.7 miles]
A soaring Gothic cathedral famed for its elegant cloister and 15th-century alabaster tomb of Carlos III of Navarra, a former king of Navarra. Climb the bell tower and stop by the small museum housing religious treasures.
Best for ages: 18+ | Free
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Experience
Cafe Iruna
Pamplona, Navarra, Spain[34 miles]
For Hemingway fans, a drink in his beloved Cafe Iruna on main Plaza del Castillo is a must; he’s still there in spirit, with his statue jauntily holding up the bar. It’s a charismatic old bar (founded 1888), with lovely views over the square, but a magnet for tourists.
Best for ages: 18+ | Free
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Experience
Navarra Museum
Pamplona, Navarra, Spain[34 miles]
The four-storey museum, housed in an old, 16th-century hospital, is home to regional artworks from prehistoric times to the 20th century. It’s packed with gems, including Roman mosaics, Romanesque sculpture, Gothic murals, and a portrait by Goya.
Best for ages: 18+ | £2
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Experience
Petritegi Cider House
San Sebastian, Basque Country, Spain[59.3 miles]
Dine on cod dishes and steaks in this traditional cider house (sagardotegi), just outside San Sebastian. They’ve been making cider here for over 500 years. They offer guided tours of the apple orchards and cider works; their typical set menus are online.
Best for ages: 18+ | Free
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