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Bucket list experience:

Last updated: 10 November, 2022
Expert travel writer: Amar Grover

In south Delhi, near Humayun’s Tomb, compact Nizamuddin is an earthy, almost medieval neighbourhood of tight lanes and jumbled houses. At its heart stands the 16th-century tomb-shrine of a 13th-century Sufi saint. It’s a particularly sacred place for Muslims, especially those drawn to the Sufi tradition, where devotional music and song play a significant role in spiritual life.

Most evenings (Thursdays are the most charged) see groups of qawwals, or bards, and musicians gathered to sing qawwalis (hymns) in the shrine’s courtyard. It’s a memorable experience; enthusiastic audiences are almost intoxicated by performances and for many outsiders, too, it seems to reinforce the strange power of music to ‘connect’ in unexpectedly profound ways.

Price: Free
Minimum age: Any
Age suitable: 13+
Frequency: daily
When: Daily
Duration: 1 hour

Getting there & doing it

Taxi or auto-rickshaw is the most convenient way to reach the area. Alternatively Hazrat Nizamuddin or Jangpura metro stations are the closest options though you’ll still need a 10-minute walk to reach the neighbourhood. Ask for directions to the dargah auliya, or shrine.

Entry to the shrine and its qawwali night is free. The sessions last for about an hour; sometimes there are two sessions in an evening.

No shoes are allowed inside the shrine so be prepared to go barefoot or with socks; any number of local stall-holders will look after your footwear for a nominal fee. You’ll need to cover your head, too, with a small scarf or cloth – local vendors can happily supply these too.

When to do it

Performances take place most evenings, but Thursdays or Friday evenings are the best times to go; plan to arrive early to get a good viewing spot.

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Our writer’s picks of the best places to stay near this experience, closest first

Imperial New Delhi Hotel

Delhi, India[4.4 miles]

Superb, centrally-located property whose refined ambience and vintage decor distills the glamour and flair of the Raj’s high-point in creating New Delhi.

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Thikana Delhi

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A small but comfortable B&B with the ambience of a homestay, featuring recently-renovated rooms and super-friendly hosts.

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ITC Maurya Hotel

Delhi, India[6.7 miles]

A solid and dependable luxury hotel with top-notch facilities, including an ayurvedic spa, a lovely swimming pool and famous restaurants.

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Destination guides including or relevant to this experience

Delhi

India

India’s intense sight- and monument-filled capital is a compelling blend of the modern Raj-influenced New Delhi, and the sights, sounds and smells of Old Delhi’s heaving and exotic lanes and bazaars.

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Our writer’s recommendations of other bucket list experiences our writer says you must do in this destination, closest first

Humayun’s Tomb

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Stunning mausoleum and precursor to the Taj Mahal, with tranquil well-maintained gardens.

Best for ages: 13+ | £1

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Friday Mosque

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Completed in 1656 by Emperor Shah Jahan, this is one of India’s largest and most beautiful mosques.

Best for ages: 18+ | £3

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Other worthwhile experiences near this experience if you have time or interest..

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Best for ages: 18+ | £5

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Best for ages: 13+ | Free

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The former bungalow residence of Prime Minister Indira Gandhi is now a slightly macabre museum. Assassinated here in 1984 by her bodyguards, even that very spot remains spotted with blood.

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