Travel bucket list idea:
Barcelona, Catalonia, Spain
Montserrat, the ‘sawn mountain’, is a jagged massif rising from the plain, 40km outside Barcelona, and famous for being the spot where St Peter allegedly hid a black statue of the Virgin, carved by St Luke, in a cave. The Virgin is now enshrined in a honey-coloured Benedictine monastery, set against undulating rock said to have inspired Gaudi – the setting, now a national park, is so extraordinary that it’s a famous honeymoon spot for Spaniards.
Funiculars ascend to the Santa Cova trail, Sant Joan trail, and (most spectacular) Sant Jeroni trail at the summit. Or join the pilgrims in hiking up – it takes three hours if you’re fit, four if not.
Take the FGC train to Monserrat from Plaça Espanya. Otherwise, it’s about an hour by taxi from the centre of Barcelona. There’s a self-service restaurant up at the monastery (but don’t expect haute cuisine), plus market stalls and picnic tables on the Mirador dels Apostols. It’s cool at the summit, so wear layers and wear sturdy shoes for the trails, and bring water and binoculars. Montserrat is most magical early morning before the crowds appear; book a room at the Hotel Abat Cisneros to get in first.
The basilica is open all year round. Try to be there for 1pm (noon on Sundays) or 7pm, when the choirboys of the 13th-century Escolanía (the oldest music school in Europe) perform songs of worship. In July, the choir is on holiday. Avoid rainy, overcast days which wipe out the views.
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