Bucket list experience:
Cote d'Azur, France
The Cote d’Azur is famous for its rugged Mediterranean beauty, though beaches are pebblier and more shingly than pristine sand. There are some exceptions, though (see Pampelonne and Juan Les Pins) and even the craggiest bays have sparkling shallows in that turquoise Mediterranean hue.
The most scenic stretches are dominated by lavish, luxury beach clubs, charging visitors anywhere from £15 and £40 to rent a sun lounger, towel and parasol – but the people-watching and sense of glamour are priceless.
The best beach clubs, around Saint-Tropez, Antibes, Cannes and Cap Ferrat, offer slick food and drink service, brought directly to your lounger – and often turn into late-night party venues. Hedonistic Saint-Tropez, with its golden beaches, is the most famous place to soak up this scene.
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Public beaches are always open. The private beach clubs generally close off their areas from Easter to September, daily from 8am until dusk, staying open later from May through August. Many hotels have their own clubs with five-star comfort and service, reserved for guests.
The warm months outside of hot, jam-packed August are best for beach lazing: May to July and September in particular. It may also be warm enough to swim from March to April, right through to October and November.
August is crowded and crazy: you’ll need to arrive first thing to stake out a place on the public beach or book a private beach sunbed well in advance. Most beach clubs in the area allow you to book a spot on their website.
Cap d'Antibes, Cote d'Azur, France
Sheltered from the wind, child-friendly Garoupe is a good choice for beach lounging. There’s a free, public section (plage municipale) with sunbeds and parasols, as well as multiple private beach clubs. Plage Keller is the trendiest. Petit Plage and Plage Joseph are also good, and family-friendly.
Best for ages: Any | Free
Monaco, Cote d'Azur, France
A stunning white sand and pebble beach under pale golden cliffs just west of Monaco. Accessed by steep steps, this shallow cove is both glamorous and exclusive. Mala has two public areas and two chic beach clubs: Eden Plage and the Reserve de Mala – both romantic at sunset, serving cocktails by candlelight and playing music after dark.
Best for ages: Any | Free
Villefranche-sur-Mer, Cote d'Azur, France
Tucked between chi-chi St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat and Nice, the charming Medieval village of Villefranche-sur-Mer is the relaxed, boho antidote to the moneybags Riviera. A kilometre of coarse, gently shelving golden sand and crystalline waters, it’s all free and open to the public.
Best for ages: Any | Free
Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, Cote d'Azur, France
Sheltered from the wind, this shingle beach in a beautiful, wooded cove is a laid-back favourite of both locals and celebrities. Views across to the Alps are sublime. It’s part public, but best to splurge on a lounger at the delightful Paloma Beach Club – a local institution with an excellent restaurant.
Best for ages: Any | Free
Destination guides including or relevant to this experience
Cote d'Azur, France
Money, glamour and bombshell looks: this beach-trimmed stretch of French coast offers decadent hotels, lounging in beach clubs, fine restaurants and world-class art.
