Travel bucket list idea:
Lalibela, Amhara, Ethiopia
Hewn entirely from living rock, the Church of St George in Lalibela is one of the world’s most astonishing feats of sacred architecture. Commissioned in the early 13th century by King Gebre Meskel Lalibela, the church was part of his visionary plan to recreate a symbolic ‘New Jerusalem’ in the highlands of Ethiopia, offering pilgrims a holy site closer to home. Remarkably, the church was not destroyed – it survived the centuries untouched by conquest or time, protected by its isolation and spiritual reverence.
Today, it stands perfectly preserved, carved in the shape of a symmetrical cross, sunk deep into the red volcanic earth. It’s a monolithic church, dug downwards out of the volcanic tuff. Visitors descend narrow passageways into the sunken courtyard, where the silence is broken only by soft chanting or a priest’s prayer. The interior is simple but powerful, lit by shafts of natural light.
St George is the stand-out – one of eleven such medieval churches at this fascinating religious site. It remains a popular pilgrimage site – and King Lelibela is now recognised by the local Christians as a saint.
Lalibela is accessible via daily flights from Addis Ababa (approx. 1.5 hours), followed by a short transfer into town. Most visitors join an organised tour or hire a local guide at the site – strongly recommended, as they offer rich insight into the churches’ symbolism and construction.
The Church of St George is part of a complex of 11 rock-hewn churches, easily navigated on foot. Allow at least half a day to explore the area. Wear sturdy shoes for uneven paths, and bring water and respectful clothing – legs and shoulders should be covered. A flashlight can help illuminate the dim interiors of some chapels.
The best time to visit Lalibela is during Ethiopia’s dry season, from October to March, when the skies are clear and the highland air is cool. January is particularly special, coinciding with Timkat, the Ethiopian Orthodox Epiphany, when thousands gather for vibrant religious processions around the churches.
For a quieter, more contemplative experience, visit just after sunrise, when the air is crisp and the morning light catches the golden tufa stone in soft relief. The site is usually quiet early in the day, allowing space for reflection. Avoid midday, when tour groups swell the narrow passages and heat rises from the sunken courtyards.
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